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The button selector is the "brains" of the system. The unit on the floor is the valve body, and the small black box with connector above it is the pressure sensor/ transducer. Based on your description of the problem, you won't find the solution there.
The troubleshooting guide I edited into...
You're right about the o-ring on the front hub adapter. That's an extra that I had lying around. As for your situation, what lights are you getting on the controller?
IV) Theory of operation (based on my observation and the P2P program)
When the CTIS is first turned on and there is more than ~100psi in the wet tank, the controller will pressurize the control line to check the pressure of the lowest tire and do a leak detect. Leak-detect works (I think) by...
III) The hub seals
One of my hub seals was not fully seated properly and was causing all of the tires to deflate through their QRVs. When this failure happens, the leaking seal may hold air at 15psi, but not much more than that. When that happens, the control line (CTIS side of the QRV) is...
II) The Quick Release Valve
This was the most convenient part to replace, but is also the least likely to fail. While it doesn't look the same, it is functionally the same as a Bendix QR1 valve with 1/2" inlet and 3/8 outlet. Mounts are the same too. The Bendix valves are nice because they...
So some folks asked me to outline the things I discovered while rebuilding my CTIS and what function each part performs, so here goes…
Preface:
Clean and dry air is essential to the CTIS’ performance. It would be wise to service the Haldex air dryer under the truck before attempting to restore...
FWIW, since the truck should have a full-system air dryer (the Haldex unit inside the passenger frame rail) that you regularly service (right?), the air/water separator or "freakin' dryer" really shouldn't be necessary. In light of this, I'll be getting a double-ended compression fitting to...
The air line at the top of the compressor head is the unloader line. It comes from the governor and should ONLY see pressure when the truck's tanks reach 120-130psi.
The best advice is to hook an off-board air supply to the truck while it is off. The front emergency glad-hand (driver's side)...
Time to dig into it. 5 lights is typically any "catastrophic" failure of the CTIS system. Try this:
Initial Conditions:
-both battery and ignition switches off.
-CTIS controller plugged in
-air tanks (at least the wet tank) drained
1) Start truck, build air until CTIS cut-in pressure...
I've never seen a lock-ring wheel like that before. Most of the time they are like the ones on M35A2s, where there's the wheel and inner lip, then an outer lock-ring that also goes under the bead. My understanding of a true "split-rim" is this: http://www.fatfenderedtrucks.com/widowmaker.html
I intend to make a thread outlining what it takes to repair the various issues involving CTIS, short of replacing the seals inside the hubs. Its actually a very simple system to repair, but takes time and some machined parts to do it right.
Well, as luck would have it now that I am bringing the CTIS on my 931A2 back into working order the exhaust valve on the mid-axle is doing the exact thing that you saw and I described. Time to remove and rebuild more parts...
Do you happen to have the P2P program? Its has a pretty good animated diagram of the CTIS system. If you don't have the program, its posted in the 5-ton TMs section.
edit: meant to add that it sounds like your quick release valves are getting stuck. If they keep some pressure in the CTIS...
FWIW, the wheel valves are easily rebuildable. I have 10 that I'm going to rebuild when I get the chance. The trick is that inside there is a "seat" that the sealing diaphragm presses against that gets rusty with age and water intrusion. They aren't available in the aftermarket channel from...
There's always this option: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?85317-M925A2-Delco-Style-Alternator It's what I'm considering doing to mine to deal with civy trailers.
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