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Have you looked to see what actually failed on the starter in the bed? Is it just worn down brushes, burned comutator, bad bearings, etc. Have you checked to see if the rear support bracket is in place for the current starter and is secure. Are these direct drive starters or geared? After...

Maybe I missed something, but did you verify that the current starter and the one in the bed is a 24 volt starter? If it is a 12 volt starter it might explain why you are burning up starters.

Ordered the ACF-50 and hopefully it will arive this coming week. Thanks again Tinstar!

Fantastic thread cucvrus! You set a good example to the rest of us.

Welcome from Berkeley.

Thank you Patracy! I wish everyone was as fantastic as you are!

Can anyone recomend an equivalent for DX330 that is available in California? Also is RUSFRE available in California. It seems to be... Thanks!

Thank you very much cucvrus!

Hi cucvrus, If you have cab corners, could you possibly take a picture of them from the inside pointing down to the corner. That's all I really need. I want to be able to stick some tools in to scrape any of the rust away and I would be pretty much doing this blind. I don't want to miss stuff...

Irregardless of whether you get thedirect drive or the gear reduction starter, Make darn sure you have the proper support bracket for the type you bought. They are different for each type and extremely important. If not supported they can cause a lot of damage. Also be sure to get NEW mounting...

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com I dont see the 24 volt version on their web site, but I bought one of the 24 volt gear reduction Models from them a couple years ago and it is still working fine. I suggest calling and asking.

Hi All, I am looking for detail drawings of the M1008 body. In particular, the passenger side rear bottom corner. I have a couple of holes within inches of that corner and I suspect some cancer in the bottom of the corner starting soon. I will be patching the holes soon, but before that I...

Thank you NormB! Now it is perfectly clear. It is much appreciated that you took the time to go out and take pics and explain!

Great tip! Could you please show a pic of the mod. I douldn't quite follow what you were talking about. Thanks!

Seems like a perfectly good title to me.

I know in this case it is easier to pull the bed since it has been off lately, but normally wouldn't it be easier to just drop the fuel tank? Or am I missing something here?

If I remember right, there is a method of replacing that hose without removing the intake manifold. I suggest you search on here for the post.

Thanks DH, I actually like your idea better. At least I've done the ground work for someone who is in a situation where that happens alot. I will be using your method though.

Would it be safe to provide the 12 vot source from the Eng wiring block connection on the bulkhead, or should it be a seperate feed from the #1 battery with a fuseable link in the wire? This would be using the Anderson connectors with the locking pin as described earlier.

Ken: Problem with that is that if both batteries are dead then you wont beable to jump start it from anoter MV with a NATO cable. for me, that is a requirement.