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I would suggest going through each safety switch and clean it, adjust it, and verify proper operation with an ohm meter. Mine were all caddy-womp-uss from day 1. As far as the governor system...good luck! Mine was all present and barely worked. I've had some decent luck with it after getting the...

In theory yes and I agree, going directly to the batts is typically the best approach but being that the distance from the battery to the bus bar is small and the cable is pretty robust, has anyone actually run the numbers or performed a voltage drop to see if they are the limiting factor? Sure...

Nice M1031 I wouldn't repaint it. Looks like a car meat wagon with the official looking badge and stripe. I would get some kinda catchy slogan and paint it on the side.

Wait! So we are completely guessing on what parts are installed on a 45 year old truck axle? Sure, it could be completely bone stock. It also could have been gutted and rebuilt internally, mounts reworked, newer axle housing installed in older 72' truck, yokes replaced, different sized joints...

OP has yet to define what he wants to do with it. So far all we know is that he wants to install older axles without any specs or reasoning behind it.

What is your end gain by trying to do this? Anything is possible but going to 3/4 ton really isn't giving you a big upgrade at all. It is also going to make you rework the truck around 8 lug axles without much strength increase. What gearing is in them? Are they original? If you are going for...

I think someone with more diesel fuel system knowledge would have to comment. Realistically with something this old, it is a systematic procedure of changing and testing the easiest/cheapest things first before condeming an IP. Lift pump could be perfectly fine, it also could be introducing air...

Possibly a lift pump failure? If it were me, I would go through the entire fuel system minus the IP. If changing out fuel, hoses, filter, and a lift pump doesn't cure it...most likely you are looking at a reman'd IP I would think.

My M1031 has always kept me in a t-shirt in the coldest weather. If anything I've found that air leaks from the firewall, fender vent, and trans tunnel to be the worst culprits. I double a radiator shield, old 6.2 struggles to come up to temp on the really cold days. As far as an aux heater...

Agreed Twin sticks help with a front locker if you cant get away from it. Stock push/pull sucks. Crossover really firms up road feel and response plus it maintains steering range throughout wheel travel. Hydro really helps as the stock system really struggles turning larger than stock tires in...

I drove an M1031 which I consider fully loaded all the time up Mt. Washington. At no point was I going, "this Detroit sucks!" If anything, I would be looking at revising the steering.

I think wheel speed is probably one of the biggest causes for Gov Bomb explosion. Let's face it, the average consumer doesn't understand how to make it work and how it simply wants to explode if you mat the throttle. I've had lock rites in other vehicles with decent luck but they absolutely...

Or spend some more $$$ and get a nice shiny ARB :)

Exactly, the Detroit is bulletproof and you know it's going to work whenever you need it. I'm not sure that you can find a downside to that. It's a known value...full floating 14 bolt with Detroit = awesome sauce

Gov-Lock has questionable reputation for durability and reliability I without question if you can afford it install a Detroit and be done with it. Unless you travel on icy roads or pull extremely heavy loads all the time, you won't really know its back there until you need it. With the...

Wouldn't hurt to grab the OEM number and search to see what NOS availability is. You run that .01% chance your local GM dealer having one on the shelf somewhere.

Are they already set up for the 4.10's? If you have to buy new gears, install kits, and setup bits plus labor, that is ballpark for an OD trans. I'd rather have a 700r4 with the 4.10's already in the axles than a TH400 and 3.73's. What do you have for parts already?

Just ground the terminal that goes back to the card, if it thuds you have a defective controller or a further issue with the control wiring. If it does not thud, replace solenoid and test again. Note that in a pinch where you aren't getting glow, this is what you would do in order to start...

You should have 12v at the outgoing terminal and at the GP connector when you turn the key on and hear the thud. If no thud, more than likely the solenoid is bad or you have other issues with the controller. If you hear a thud and no 12v outgoing, the solenoid is bad. Just an FYI, the solenoid...

If your truck lacks in the maintenance department or you/previous owner have not tackled it yet I personally would: -replace all GP's with AC Delco 60's -bypass resistor and remove -confirm system cycles correctly according to temperature -replace all rubber fuel lines -install a spin on...