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Its the only way, for sanity's sake.

Cheapest option: https://ocoindustrial.com/genpro-gillette-cg03-01f-universal-military-electrical-distribution-spider-box-for-military-generators-120-240-volts-out/ Can either wire up a 30A receptacle at the machine, or wire a 30A plug out from, the lugs, and then you can directly power a home...

Have you reached out to Delks in the Carolinas?

And its amazing what a very small but pressurized leak can do...

Don't rebuy the braided OEM line. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000 That's what I use when I do return repairs. It takes a little oil on each end to help slide the components together (since the OEM garbage line is 3.5MM, and...

This. If you have voltage, but no noise... Toss it. Do you have the cube Facet, or the cylindrical Airtex style? The latter is the updated design, with slightly different hose routing (and accessories).

I believe the contents are the same, but the wrap count around the CT is different.

Test it. Do you have 24V at both side terminals when its pulled out, and only at one side when pushed in?

There is a reason why Lister Petter has gone bankrupt so many times (and is now nothing more than a brand name for a Chinese engine manufacturer).

They will run if they have power, and are not being overriden by a fault. If you followed Kurts writeup and you dont have 24VDC+ at the pump connector, you need to determine where its dropping out.

Do you have no fuel lights on?

You need to really inspect the radiator, if that much garbage was in the system. How do the hoses look? They have wire reinforcements on the inside... those might be in terrible shape.

Well you don't know if it didn't drain if you kept the (non see through) hoses in place while opening. If you did remove the hoses though, and nothing came out... yeah wouldn't hurt to flush it. At that point though, I would remove and clean it and flush the manifold and water jacket of the...

If its free floating in the TM document, it means its a discrete part. Its only being held in place right now by corrossion and ex-wife level stubbornness.

Thats one of the few benefits Ive found in the AMMPS sets... easy access to the front of the engine. The rest of the envelope is too tight, and way too annoying for this codger.

Not the first... definitely not the last. Do yourself a favor and look up rodent proofing in this forum, for the tips and tricks. Glad the set didnt burn up because of these chewers.

Yes 16 is just tension held in the block and this plate, by two O rings.

You will want to use needle nose to remove those little compression fittings where the rotten line mounts onto the metering pump barb... they may or may not be reuseable. If they aren't, you can source new or carefully use hose clamps.

You want to cut the caps, with the Xs on them. Use a pair of plier sand squeeze the ridge sides together, which will bulge the other sides. Take a dremel and zip these caps off. Do not cut into the barb inside the hose, or into the primary brass tube that the barbs are mounted... or you will be...