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6.2/6.5 turbos are fed from both sides with a single downpipe.
Personally I don't like stacks, however you could exit the fender or fenders and avoid fabbing around a moving hood or blocking your vision.
Haven't updated in awhile, I'll try to address some of the questions. Truck isn't on the road yet, it is drivable, got some detail stuff left and an electrical gremlin to deal with.
Yes, 1.8mm
The green is UV resistant durabak, the black for inside and underneath is not.
I agree on the...
Finally got a chance to work on it again, started with a sawzall and then decided to try a cutt-off wheel which went much quicker. removed rust in the newly exposed areas, coated with rust bullet and now ready to reassemble with ORD's wet bolt kit.
I Won't be back at it for awhile, I'll update the results when I do.
I shouldn't of said frame, I was referring to the brace rivited to the frame that covers the nut end of the spring eye bolt.
torch the bolt to free it to spin? did that.
torch an access hole on the inside of the frame? thinking about it.
torch the bushing, filling the garage with smoke? accidentally did that last time.
In any case your answer was short and to the point, I like it.
I'm installing ORD's rear shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, and wet bolt kit. The bolts for the rear shackles came out after much persuasion. The front of each leaf mount looks like a pita so I thought I would ask what tricks others have used to remove the bolt. I haven't been able to rotate the...
My vote is for the power loc if you plan on driving winter roads with it. And for the detroit if it's going to be more trail. This is only using the 3 options you listed.
I can't find the magazine article but a google search of "NV4500 swap kit 6.2" resulted in this link, there may be others but they're all pricey.
High-Impact NV4500 Conversion Listing
I believe there is/was a kit, with everything you need if you can't source them seperately. petersens 4wheel or fourwheeler magazine had it listed in there project M1008 vehicle build story I think. I'll try to find it.
I did the same thing, ordered the 1 piece seals by mistake. LMC says one piece for our years but mine was 2 piece as well. instead of rivits I tack welded the frame back together. I have a picture in my durabak thread post #22...
I abandoned the stock fueling route when I added a second tank. I replaced all the fuel lines with bio safe stuff, can't remember the name. After the tank swithching valve I run into a spin on NAPA prefilter then a Mr gasket pump all on the drivers side frame rail, then up to a spin on racor...
Thanks again, I looked into Line-x too, that would be the ultimate coating in my opinion. This is the first I've used Durabak on an exterior like this. It's my trial run to see what I'd use on the General when it's complete. I talked to my local Line-x guy about spraying everything...
Haven't updated in awhile, had trouble taking an up close pic of the durabak that showed the texture. I'll try again. I've been working on the doors, trying to get seams correct, I underestimated how far off the stampings would be and how much the doors were out of shape. I didn't assemble...
I've had sheared center bolts deform into a "staircase" shape before. each individual leaf was about 1/8" inch forward of the previous. The soft center bolt material deformed a good distance before shearing. In that case (In addition to Recovry4x4's instructions) I had to carefully loosen the...
I replaced all my blinking lights with LED bulbs for about $30/pair, 5W LED reverse bulbs that are ridiculously bright as well. I got them here Pair 1156 BA15 5W CREE LED Reverse bulbs I don't have the truck on the road yet, so I can't give them a complete review, but I like how they look so far.
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