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If Ray cant help, I have a used takeout here and I think I have a couple new ones.

Whats the NSN or item #?

S6 isn't your primary issue, if you have current on L2. Start there

If your machine is set to produce 120/240 1PH, the L2 will have no current present. And the AM/VM in the 9 o clock position (if you look at the printed info on the gauge panel face) is operating at 3PH, picking up voltage for the gauges off L2-L3 (L3 is common amongst almost all voltage...

Does your percent rated current gauge (M8.) register in this 9 o clock position, as you have it set up?

What is your S8 set to, that you are pulling 120V only off L2?

The AM-VM only tells the gauges what to read... so while it might work in that setting, you need to chase the gremlin out.

If you need any parts, I can recommend the folks up at Daves Starter. They have repaired a number of alternators for me. They are Prestolite authorized, and I am sure can order in and ship whatever you need. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057280487467

Doubtful you will find a generic. Ametek JAG-6008 At least (14) up on the big auction site as of right now.

And make sure your batteries are disconnected during all this. I agree with Ray, sounds like you need some magic in a can to fix a phantom problem.

Yes they are labeled on the floor of the cube, just not super easy to see. Thats where the TM callouts help as well.

Liquid (or air) should only escape up and through the top of the metering pump when its compressed... air/liquid passing through under any other scenario is not working right.

Thats the correct relay for the 5 right hand units. The first (leftmost) position is a switch: SPS-100-88-21091 I would recommend Kurt Klopp's unit for the first position: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-mep-803a-s14-relay-5930-01-396-2940-88-21091.200402/

Yeah its not going to do anything with those little plastic boxes missing. The leftmost unit is a switch, the rest are all identical relays. Hopefully you bought the right units.

I think you need your own thread on this, is if doesn't already exist. Anyone can test almost anything in these machines if they have three things: 1.) Appropriate Technical Manual 2.) A handheld multimeter 3.) Eyes, Ears, and Hands Even the third may be optional, but helpful. For the 803A, I...

Do you have the color coded 10kw wiring diagram TM? Test along the starting circuit until you find the issue. Have you tested the cranking relay?

Submerge the pumps in a can of carb cleaner for a few days, and they articulate by hand and clean with compressed air. You may find the problem has resolved itself.

I believe TB4 is on the sheet metal wall behind the S8 phase selection switch. You will need to remove the operator control cube roof to get to it. You should buy a couple of cans of a high quality deoxidizing spray to aid you in getting this machine going. The S1 may not be bad... might be...

The wire numbers should be printed in red ink every couple inches, on every wire in the machine. You may need to clip free a zip tie to see what I mean.

Yes to 1/4" primary hose, yes to dremeling off and replacing with a hose clamp. Yes to doing the returns at the same time. Spray paint probably has no obvious meaning tied to the machine.