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The phase selection switch is behind the little door on the 'front' of the machine (gauge side) left side, just above the convenience outlet. Never turn that switch while the machine is running or you may not only be looking for a new pair of underwear, but also where to refill the smoke chamber.

Set the machine to 61-61.5 and put your desired load on the machine. Adjust it thereafter to as close to 60 as you want. If you saw how much the hertz can actually fluctuate from grid tied power based on your location, you wouldn't be to worried at all.

All sorts of adapters are commercially available: https://www.hydraulichoses.com/steel-jic-an-fittings-s/148.htm

-5AN is a good cross to 5/16JIC... very common cross. You can probably find an adapter to jump right at the spout to the size you want for your fuel line. And if you need a pickup assembly I have a number of them listed in the classifieds here.

Where is your sense of adventure??

The 803s on the whole are better machines from an ownership standpoint. The 4 cylinder is a smoother runner than the twin, and its slightly quieter to me. There is more room in the engine bay to perform maintenance, and its generally just easier to access everything. That said... I have an 802...

Clearances to consider, no matter the machine.

Most replacement air filters come with a new rubber backed washer that does the same thing.

Yeah the replacement doesn't need to be phenolic like the OEM, just get a wingnut (or a regular nut and a washer) and call it a day.

.... https://www.cnn.com/2022/12/13/politics/us-patriot-missile-defense-system-ukraine/index.html

From the manufacturer, more technical data if desired.

Just take it slow. Remove the tank hold down and pad, and other obvious obstructions/hoses. You might need to lift and scoot it back, before tipping (to allow a free hand to help the fan blade out of/around the two piece radiator shrouding.

I've got a 5k tank on the shelf if you need one. My preferred way to is to remove the roof, and only the bolts at the lowest edge of the panels (inside the engine bay, and both sides around the tank. Leave it all as one piece... won't be chasing alignment issues that way. You should be able to...

Yeah easy 8 hours, 10-12+ easily under lesser load.

And after you do both of those, be VERY liberal with a good deoxidizing spray on every contact, switch pad, screw, etc... the fine stuff you can't see you can displace (and help connections at the same time) with that spray. I recommend Deoxit...

You will be more than happy with Rays products 60hertz

At least it sounds like your doc had the right TMs at hand to sort out the issue ;). Rest up!

Not the best photo by ANY measure... but taken quick off a parts machine here to confirm what I thought I remembered.

I think the sheet metal case is tagged with these numbers too, but I think its on the back side of the relay base, so you won't see it unless the top is off.