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As Kurt said... no issue hooking up as they sit in the machine. Just don't energize the charger while the machine (ie the battery charging alternator) is running. You can get into an overcharging situation.

I use the generation of this product before this (GENM2... discontinued now I think). Its worked well for years. https://no.co/gen5x2

A LOT of batteries listed for the 1050... but I am pretty sure the Optima Red Tops 34/78 will work well for this application (what they put in 803s). Best thing you can do is to measure the tray in the machine, and find the biggest batteries you can afford...

And there is a mounting plate missing for the FSS. I have one. Also you will need the hardware set that goes with the FSS as well. Onan asks $110 just for the armature that comes out of the FSS. I have used sets available (and the mounting plate too). Edit: Your mounting bracket is there, I...

And it looks like someone might have dicked with the high side throttle stop, looks like its not going to let the engine run fast enough.

I've got a MIP on the shelf if you find the intermittent issues lies within it.

As Farmitall said, if DC kicks it over without issue its in the other circuitry. I would take the top off and inspect/clean the crank relay. A very simple assembly you can hit with some deoxidizing cleaner when you take the small plastic/ceramic top off it.

The bottom of each pump has a mesh strainer which can be removed and cleaned. On the 002/003 after that is a separator, then two canister style filtering heads.

And if the EMI filter does fail, cut and splice them out in the most waterproof manner you can muster. The pumps should work fine for civilian use without them.

The rubber boot (packard) connectors pull apart, just twist them a bit softly to loosen them up. Once separated, use a handheld multimeter to test for voltage on the DC side (aux + prime setting you should see DC at two of them, prime at only one). Those inline filters fail often enough that if...

It seems the ultimate upgrade part is tough to find right now... not sure if these folks have stock: https://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=A-10897&dfw_tracker=140621-101627&campaignid=17864099643&keyword=101627 Needs a 3/4" washer with it too from memory, not included.

You can use the same ultimate well nut for this position too (its the same part as the lower tank drain). If you don't want to go through the effort, you can get the upgraded grey style here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224013193011

I have that same KUS sender on the shelf for my personal machine when the time comes.

Do you have the TMs for this set? They are available in the TM forum here if not. The -24P for this machine calls out the filter here: NSN 2940015098381 which ties back to the following:

Color me shocked then... you dont hardly ever see the As across the block, as compared to the Bs. Not that I pay too much attention to the larger 3PH stuff... but its almost always Bs.

The A versions of each of the machines Guy listed were 'analog' style, though I'm not sure how many units of each were actually fielded before going to the B variants... but they are out there.

They are on FB too, for those who might be on that platform: https://www.facebook.com/armypsmagazine/

Yeah there is no getting around it, Just get a 5/16 nut runner for the panel bolts and a socket and crescent for the larger lower line of bolts. Easy on, easy off.

Do you have the -24 TM for this machine? It has a flow chart of troubleshooting any issues you can face. An example related to just the engine characteristics:

You can make a dual male ended cable to jump the leads together that are coming off the switch, to take it out of the equation.