Search results

Any hard line (off the primary pump, after the canister fuel filter, to IPs, etc). Just try to figure diagnose the rest of the fuel delivery system. Does the smoke change color when it starts to bog? Did you replace the air filter, or is that as-delivered? Did you clock the injection pumps when...

Have you inspected the hard fuel lines to make sure you are getting adequate delivery, post filters? It is possible the fuel rack is out of adjustment, and you just can't fuel the machine enough (or the IPs need to be taken out, cleaned, and tested).

How many hours are on this machine currently, and is it a reset or original?

Id pull the breaker on the operator cube, and keep the charger attached.

It does sound OK, but you really shouldnt be running without the side door. The enclosure is designed to direct the airflow to where it needs, or the set can overheat.

Just send me a PM. The info can be found here: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803-813a-replacement-door-starter-side-88-20078.196472/

I've been expecting fuel gel to be an issue in this storm, especially in the lands which never see temps low enough for it to occur. Good luck to all.

Ive found that CRC is OK, but Deoxit is better. The CRC flashes off too quickly for me, and doesnt seem to coat as well. YMMV

There is probably corrosion in the switches, they can lead to improper readings. Have you used any sort of deoxidizing spray on the open element switches in this set? I would strongly encourage you to do so (all on the flip down panel, as well as behind the S8 wall (so you need to pop the roof).

Give us some details on what you are trying to do? 120V or 240V? Do you have a generator hookup now, or how are you planning on getting power into the dwelling?

Look forward to seeing it!

Unless you trailer the set around, I have no issue with just using a regular well nut on the top of the tank. But if you have the time and desire, do them both.

You should seriously consider doing the ultimate well nut mod if you need to swap the nut. Its more expensive, and more work... but it will outlast you.

There is some wiggle room, but not a lot. A tank that has been reefed down a bit too much can distort a number of things (and yes, knowing that step is in the tank is pretty important to). Its not like that tank has a whole lot of places it can go where its located (and how its shaped)! I hope...

Have you tested the fuel module on the RR fender, which attaches to the float mechanism? Only two ways I know of to get a no fuel trip, and its the double float assy, and the fender mounted switch. Testing of these is covered in the TM.

I would go through the -24P and fine the OEM vendor and go with what the factory used, if available. Just with the addition of a rubber lined wire guide probably screwed into the bulkhead there to give permanent separation from the edge of the metal.

Stuff is magic. I have a 10k here that was going into overload at under 8KW (while simultaneously showing only 20% on the load gauge) just a couple of days ago. Being so cold I sprayed and exercised and came back the next day and just like it left the factory.

You would think someone would put a set of eyes on that during the Reset... seeing as you dont know how many hours it was actually rubbing to get to that state.

I used a similar thread cutting screw for the sides on that same machine, just found the photos. I dont remember if these were #10 or #8s, but I thought they blended better with a touch of paint on them.

The top is not needed over the radiator, they cannot enter there. The side vents can be done as shown, or just more sheet metal screws (what I did on the same prior machine). In a perfect world you will also remove the sock at wire entry, and replace with a panel with wire grip/strain relief so...