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Here is what I was looking at: https://www.powerspareparts.com/search-by-products/engine-stop-solenoid/diesel-shut-down-solenoid-sa-3865-1751es-24e7ulb2s5

I would check the E-stop switch, even by disconnecting it and jumping the leads together.

Anyone found a part that works as well as the Woodward OEM? I see some generics out there around the $90 mark.

I am looking to get help from a local in retrieving a piece of equipment, thought I might find someone here locally.

Looking to see if anyone wants to help move an MEP-003A (62x32x37 @ 1300lbs) located in Maryland. If someone were just able to retrieve the item and toss it on a skid at their place, that would work too (and I could send in a common carrier). Will also entertain if someone can move it direct...

My 002 is going to a high school friend this weekend. Its not pretty, and the hours aren't low... but its always worked. Not my first, hopefully not my last. Its nice having an air cooled backup set.

Reset or not, assume nothing was done properly. The fuel fault light is a topic discussed many times, I would search it out... its one of two things (well three if you could no fuel in the tank). Has your friend seen this run properly or is this the first go?

https://buyinpower.cummins.com/

Anyone here in this forum from Maryland? Have a couple questions if so. Thanks

I don't have the specs handy, but I recall using a generic float assy from Summit or similar, and just modifying the arm to work with the tank in an 803.

The 803 does have a larger tank, but I think to Guy's point... same top termination on both tanks so both accessory sets will fit (though not technically be correct, like the floats wont be at the same levels).

If any of you are experiences issues related to a bad VR in your 802 or 803 (or you simply want a backup on the shelf as part of your normal prepardness), the unit designed and manufactured by SS user kloppk can't be beat. The fit and finish is excellent... super simple wiring instructions for a...

Its a bit of a PITA, but gets a little easier the more times you do it. Won't say I enjoy it though...

For the main fuel lines (not the topic we are discussing at the moment) the OEM press fit caps can be replaced with small hose clamps. For the return line (what you did ask for) you will want to pick up a pack of 1/8" plastic vacuum tees (in case they break during the fix) and very small zip...

I use Gates 1/8" fuel line, on a spool at O Reillys. Others probably work too (the gates is just a touch undersized compared to OEM... just takes a bit more work to replace).

I've had to vice them and get that arm moving again (with a bit of persuasion) to free it, even after sitting in the dip for a few days.

Got any vendor info on the vent filter? Im considering updating my 55g drums to something with that. USLD even nuked from orbit with 4x the rated stability and biocides isn't keeping it super fresh.

What did you do to get it operational?

I find the hose and petcock to not really be needed. An empty coffee can and aftermarket unit with drain valve works just as good, with less clutter. YMMV

The thermostat helps to regulate the block temperature, which is a factor in the combustion process.