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Thanks, Rusty. I had a friend who is retired master mechanic examine it, and in his opinion there are many cracks, and some of them are quite deep, so it should be replaced. His assessment seems reasonable to me.

I could not push or pry the clutch fingers down to insert a block of wood, so I just removed every other bolt, then I removed the rest of the bolts loosening them alternating across the clutch until I had them all out. I had the clutch assembly out on about a half hour. I found the...

I finally got the transmission out of the way, and I am now staring at the clutch assembly. Does anyone have an idea what the dimensions should be for the "small wood blocks" that are used to wedge between the clutch fingers and the pressure plate housing?

I finally got a friend to help me unbolt and remove the passenger bench seat, which allowed me to remove the third floor pan, which gave me access to the jackshaft, which I removed yesterday, which allowed me to use 2 come-alongs to wiggle the transmission out. It is now resting on a pallet...

I did all of that weeks ago, and it is still too snug. It is possible that my M756A2 is too full of other stuff, like a rear winch, to allow for removing the transmission without taking something else out. PS: The transfer case is unbolted, but will not come out either.

Sorry to have dragged the repair of my deuce's clutch. I had to focus the last 2 weeks upon repairing my daily driver. Yesterday I was able to get back to pulling the transmission out. I borrowed 2 more come-alongs. I attached one underneath the frame, and attached one end to a frame rail...

Thanks, Big Z, downloaded it. Here is a link to TM9-2320-209-34-2-1

I am now 3 6-hour days into pulling the transmission out of my M756A2, and cannot seem to budge the transmission. I of course have removed all of the bolts that I can find holding it to the engine, as well as all of the linkage, and the transfer case. I have the transmission rapped with...

I tried them, but they seem to not be shipping it any more. I do not know who "Boyce in Utah," so a link would help.

How about some part numbers so we all can have a shopping list to work from? PS: it does not look like anyone sells a clutch kit for the deuce anymore.

The other things to keep in mind are: 1] there is always a precipitate formed after blending petroleum distillates with WVO. 2] A drop in temperature can result in more precipitates formed, so be prepared to trap and drain sediments from your fuel system. 3] A turbo-charger is critical equipment...

The problem with stale gasoline is the alcohol that might be added to your gasoline, typically at 10%, does not evaporate as much as the light petroleum fractions do. Consequently the alcohol content in stale gasoline can be significantly higher. So, I recommend not using stale gasoline over...

Thanks folks for your responses. No, I have no plans to part the truck out, and I very much know how unique the truck is. I can only hope whomever buys it will finish the restoration of it. It is definitely in pretty good shape. It needs a clutch, and may need a brake master cylinder...

I bought 1/4" OD teflon tubing to replace all of my return lines with. While it is not as transparent as the original, it is transparent enough, and resists the widest range of solvents.

I have become too old, sick, and poor to continue restoring this pipeline truck, so it is now for sale to a good home. I tried posting it under vehicles for sale, but that option was not available to me. PM me if you are interested.

He seemed to be about 50-60 years old, and had come from his "ranch" to get water in Prescott. All he said was his pipeline truck was in excellent condition, and had all of the equipment, and he took it regularly to exhibit it around AZ. Possibly the car show in Jerome.

Yes, folks, I am very interested in getting my M756a2 fully equipped, so scoring a set of chains with the D-ring, would great; and hooks for the snatch block, Evil Dr. Porkchop, would be great. Let me know how much, before you make them. Desert Deuce, there has to be at least 3 M756a2 s in...

I have been burning waste oils on a Chevy van with a 6.2L in it. I found the biggest problem was the Stanadyne DB-2 IP. It was designed with several silicon seals. Silicon seals tend to swell if alcohol is in the blend over 3%, and the even swell badly with xylene above 5%. Note: Xylene is...

Another option is just knowing the length of the trunnion, and the diameter of one of the snatch blocks would be very useful. It looks like the trunnion is about 12" long, and the snatch blocks look like they might be 8" in diameter.

Thanks, Evil Dr. Porkchop. Beautiful truck. Thanks, for the great photos. It was very helpful to see a tape next to some of your photos. A photo of the trunion with a tape, or scale, next to it would be very useful.