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Who is "we". You make them sound glacially slow to warm-up. Slight exaggeration...sorry, they are not 1 minute plugs.

I understood the load to be 80 amps. The ST85 GP relay that many use is rated for continuous 85 Amps.

I've been running AC60's with a manual push button system for 10 years. I get a minimum of 4 years out of them , some have lasted as long as 6. They're easy to test, less than 5 minutes. Just replace the faulty ones, no need to replace all 8. When its really cold you need a longer burn cycle...

I dont think a click when turning the key has anything to do with the starter needing to be shimmed. It will try to engage every time and chew the flexplate teeth when its out of alignment. If the batteries are confirmed good, then I would look to the wiring connections to the solenoid, and...

It would be wherever the installer put it. Mine is under the headlight switch. Do you see any non-stock button on your dash? Then your's doesn't have one. The majority of CUCV's just utilize the stock card set-up. Put your own in.

The original 24 volt starters have silver alloy contacts in the solenoid to prevent them from welding together when closed. Most of the aftermarket stuff is built too cheaply to include these special contacts, and therefore are prone to the contacts welding together when you start your engine...

Could be your temperature sensor failed, it's on the back passenger side of head. Or your solenoid could be seized. It's on the drivers side of IP (green wire) pushes on the throttle leaver to bump the idle to 800-900 RPM. After engine warms up to around 125 F the solenoid switches off.

I had that symptom, turned out to be a leaking fuel pressure sensor on the filter base. Want to test it ; Try cracking your fuel cap, to release vacuum after the last drive of the day, then see if it fires quicker in the morning. So, no it is not normal. The longer cranks will hasten the day...

I second evldoers method with a long pry-bar. Always worked for me, as a one man job.

I want a proper NOS GM cable, not an aftermarket piece of junk that doesn't work. Many have posted here that they are the wrong length.

Ahh..I've been searching for one for a couple of years. Care to share the source or part with one?

I've never seen one leak at the cowl vents, it should be dry above that (inside). I'ts always been from the pinch weld where the windshield rubber sits on. A little bit of rust starts here and allows a gap where water goes over the edge. Had water coming from both side corners. About 20 small...

I originally suspected the u-bolts or the leaf spring bushings. I mean, what else can it be back there that attaches the drive train to the truck. Will check the u-bolts for tightness. I asked another CUCV guy up here who has never felt this in one of his many Govloc equipped M1009's. As for...

On the AC60 replacement intervals. I keep track of when each one goes and in which cylinder. I get at least 4 years constant use out of them-with a manual push button system. Some have made it for 6 years. Its easy to tell when one goes out, engine idles rougher and you will notice smoke out of...

Interesting...that it might be the GOV LOC. Took a CUCV guy for a ride with me, first he didn't notice anything, then stated that it was normal for these trucks. With a 4" lift I'm pretty sure the slip joint can't bottom out.

M1009, 4" lift w/blocks on rear. Its a thump that is more felt than heard. Seems to be coming from the rear. Its not the u-joint. Happens when starting from a full stop, not right away on throttle application but after a few feet of travel. Also occurs when coming to a full stop right at the end...

My recently rebuilt alt2 only reads 14.2V. While it is within spec..the voltmeter gauge does sit lower than where it had previously always indicated on the hash mark. Does this point to a possibly faulty or wrong regulator. I've also have a morse code flashing alt2 light at idle that bothers me...

Failure of the two bolts that hold the starter together? I've seen the longer one that attaches to the support bracket look fairly rusty around the threads just under the nut, perhaps yours were really bad. Once it came apart, some component shorted out, causing your blistered power cable.

No one down this road before then. Funny..if I had posted about putting a 3 1/2 extension on the end of my tailpipe, this thread would have had 100 posts and gone on for weeks. Anyways, it seems that the early exhaust, as shown in the TM's is one continuous piece from manifold to muffler. While...

My right side exhaust down pipe that bolts to the manifold looks like it spent its life in Truk lagoon, unlike the left which is clean. Been on the lookout for one as apparently they cant get one here and the original GM ones are supposed to be better than the Walker exhaust as they are made...