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Ahh...bother to check the manufacturers website first? Its my understanding that they are two completely different systems, from totally different product lines with different part numbers. Why else would the manufacturer's site state ; It combines the smooth operation of a limited-slip...

I've been considering the Powertrax No-Slip for my M1009. Supposed to be quiet on the street, unlike a true locker. Combines the smooth operation of a limited-slip differential, with the traction performance of a locking differential. Still have the G80 GovLoc, works fine after 10 years. But I'm...

The best starter is the big heavy original 27MT direct drive. Get it rebuilt, new brushes, bushings and bendix. You'll be surprised by how fast it then cranks and how instantly the engine fires, if your fuel and GP systems are in good order. They are made to last.

Since it was hot and running, perhaps your IP solenoid has failed. You can check it by having the ignition on, removing the pink IP wire and reconnecting it. You should hear it click. You said it had fuel from the filter drain, I would have checked the filter bleed at top with a clear line, so...

Diesel Rx..sounds like you have a set of Wellmans. Everyone I talked to, had nothing but problems with them. Poor longevity and a tendency to swell up when they fail. Try the AC60G's next time.

The CDR valve regulates the amount of pressure or blowby from the crankcase back to the intake. The purpose of the CDR valve is to maintain 0" to -4" inches of vacuum in the crankcase at all engine speeds. This is a maintenance item and should be replaced or cleaned every 30K miles as...

I recently had my Alt 2 rebuilt. Gen 2 light is flashing at idle and low throttle settings. Shop is unhelpful, basically brushed me off. So, decided I will take it apart myself and replace regulator, rectifier and diode-trio.

I think only the early years around 83-84 needed a shim. The latter use a no shim design housing. You can see the words cast onto the Drive end housing. If yours worked before and you had no shim, you wont be needing one.

So..not getting any any love from the Troglodyte at the alt shop. I'm done with them. When I took it in, I explained my Alt light flashing symptom and asked specifically that they replace the diode trio, rectifier, regulator etc..as well as the usual bearings, brushes and anything else that...

Cracking the cap releases built up vacuum in the tank.. you should be able to hear it. When you have a fuel system issue, like a leaking filter base, the vacuum draws in air to the system making it hard to start. Usually done after last drive of the day, so you wont have to crank endlessly in...

Years ago I bought a brand new OEM civy filter base, looked exactly the same, with heater and water in fuel sensor but did not have provision for the fuel pressure sensor. So, Doghead is correct, only military filter bases had the fuel pressure sensor, civy's don't.

If your starter is tired, that could be the problem, as well as oil viscosity at those temps. These motors require a cranking speed of 200 rpm. When my starter was worn out, it was extremely hard to start in cold weather.

A few choice quotes from other members experience ; There have been many reports of some import starters that are not worth more than scrap value. / Lifetime warranties are great but only if the warranty will also go and lay down in a field and replace it when it craps out on you. Don't hold...

On the starter, if you still have the original direct drive 27MT you're much better off getting it rebuilt than taking a chance on an aftermarket gear reduction. Many of them fail prematurely. The direct drive is very heavy duty, it will last for 6 years constant use between rebuilds.

So..I still have a flickering Alt 2 light at idle, even when driving at low throttle I can see it faintly. As well, the voltmeter which always sat on the left of the hash line, which is 28.8 V, now sits the equivalent of one voltmeter needle width to the left. Since the yellow/green line is 26...

Just put it back in, full rebuild for $80, great price. All new components, case sandblasted, pulley and fan painted. Confirmed, bearing was drying out. Not bad service, considering 90,000 miles since last rebuild.

Even when my old batteries way back were dying, I never had an alt squeek. Looking at some pictures of 27si components, the front bearing is double sealed. How would the lube get in there? I'll probably just pull it and get it rebuilt, the diode trio has been causing a minor Alt 2 flash at idle...

Just started hearing it today at idle. Is this a symptom of one of the bearings going out? Belts are new and tight, its definitely Alt 2. Was last rebuilt March 2005. About 90,000 miles on engine since. Anyone hear this before.

Get an AC Delco pump, dont use a Carter, they are worthless junk that fail prematurely. On the lift pump replacement ; Its easier to get the rear most bolt started first as it has the worst access. Its the harder one to get in so do it first, doing the front one first can lead you to spend...

Happened to me once in traffic..braking, off throttle. Bumped the idle up a little. Never happened again.