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I saw, anyone know why he stopped making them? Such a great idea and apparently a very high quality final product

Im quite upset that Waterloo doesn't make he overdrive kit anymore, would've bought it in a heartbeat

Yeah I had figured it most of the differences between the two in terms of modifications, but all that matters is he pistons. I'm hoping that this new one weighs the same as the old one as I would really rather not have to spend ~700$ on a set of liners and pistons because I can't find a same...

It's amazing how much of a powerhouse the LDS is compared to an LDT. Even many if my friend's were surprised that a truck this size with only a 7.8L engine could accelerate in a gear higher than 3rd. And yes, unfortunately those links send me to a 404 error, however you can fix them would be...

I'll try to get them weighed today, after work I was gonna try to get over my friend's house and wash the heads down so I could out the valves back in, although this piston issue kinda takes priority now, I'll report back on what the two weigh

It's great, I'm confident this truck would've beat my M1010 had I ever raced the two. Another reason I bothered to spend this much money and time to fix it. That being said, anyone know a source for -1A pistons? I can only find them for the -1, and even saw one for a 427 but none for my truck

Yes unfortunately I have been unable to locate an original style piston. I'll get it weighed and hope to God it's the same. Really don't wanna have to spend the money on a set of 6 but sadly I love this truck so I know if that's what it comes to I'll end up doing it

I'm not sure. This engine has the single oil squirter. I had figured it shot up into that hole on the pistons to live and cool everything up there but that was little more than a guess, I don't know if the hole is on the same side of the piston that it sprays oil onto, I'll take a more in depth...

The top of my rod has a hole drilled through the center. I'll take a better look at the holes and see exactly which way they go, as well as the weighs of the two pistons

No piston I can find online has these, all the 4 ring LDS pistons I can find look like the new one I got

Isnt that what this hole here is for? It goes up into the piston and I believe vents out brought the small holes near the oil ring.

Gonna have to put up some pictures of this stuff for an accurate diagnosis of what those lines and fittings and whatnot may be

And if not, does anyone know somewhere I can get the style piston that my truck has? Or do I have to buy a full set of 6 and really hurt the wallet a bit?

Gasket set came in today, along with the piston and sleeve set. Sleeve is a Z stamp and measures up exactly the same as the old one. The piston however, has me concerned. The new piston has the same # of rings and the same style solid wristpin. However, the inside is not the same. The new one...

Got the rear head off yesterday, pulled he valves out of the front one, wetsanded and polished them all, had some nasty buildup on the intakes. In the process of doing the same to the rear head now. Thankfully neither head is cracked or warped as far as I can tell, and all of the valves are...

Some of my parts have begun rolling in, and I finally have some free time with the 3 day weekend. I was just about to plastigage rod #2 when I realized I do not know the clearence specs for the 465-1A. I've been reading through TM9-2815-210-34-2-2 and although I've found the torque specs for...

Exactly the kinda headache I'm looking to avoid. It's only maybe 10 minutes of work to check a bearing, just to know where it's at for so little effort is worth it to me

I haven't ordered anything or made any decisions just yet, today or tomorrow I'm gonna get under there and do just that, I'll plastigage one or two and if all checks out then I will likely put it back in, still gotta get the injectors to the diesel shop too

I think I might just do that then, I gotta inspect the crank first, didn't really check yet. Once I pulled the piston I slapped the pan back up with 2 bolts to keep crap outta here and havent been back under there yet

But now to install new bearings aren't you supposed to use a micrometer and bore dial gauge to check crand and rod wear/specs and do all this fancy math to figure out if you need different bearings or something like that? All I know about this so far is what I've been watching and reading online