Search results

Why not use this as a launch point to remove the stock setup and modify the set to accept spin on filters?

Not that these are complex units, but I have to image the ASK models are a bit more of a PITA to service with all of the panels in place, compared to the open frame. Looks like a good score though.

Ease of install/change. More common standard filter size. Cleaner install.

An excellent idea to make a killer design platform just that much better.

Thank you

Came home and isolated the OPS... bingo bango she purrs in both run settings! Time to replace that part, and clean up that area on the block. Thanks for all your help everyone.

In looking up a replacement OPS, I came upon the folks over at Green Mountain. They are nice enough to give manufacturer details on some items... and it appears that this model is also an appropriate replacement. http://www.alliedelec.com/honeywell-76052-15-01/70111623/ Yes, no, maybe? The...

You have to reach through the pulleys and belt at the front of the engine... its right on top. If you go the side of the case that has the black rubber radiator drains, you will see they T. One comes down from the side of the radiator, and the other just follow back towards the engine with your...

As an aside, whats the preferred method for degreasing these things? Will the wiring stand up to a degreaser? I want to clean this entire area up as part of my testing of the OPS, but dont want to mess anything else up as I go. Thanks

Here you can see S1, as well as the disgusting condition of the OPS. Whoever previously serviced this set cared little about cleanliness.

and I need to provide an image of my S1... because I think its #13 which has no screw or lead at the moment (and from reading above... thats the run circuit). Which doesn't make sense, as it has ran just fine.

As I get more time playing with these toys... I am finding little bits of info like this to be indespensible. Hope Lowes has some (on my way to/from work).

I haven't opened the PDF of the TM yet tonight... but is the oil pressure switch the item in the block near where the oil is drained? I know when I was out there yesterday, whatever that device was is totally caked in oil from its previous owners.

Yes, that is correct Chainbreaker.... holding master in start position. 1.) I will locate this in the TM and figure out how to do this. 2.) We'll hold on that for now. 3.) I went over S1 earlier, and all screws were tight and all wires appeared to be firmly in their lugs. I did notice that...

I found two NOS on eBay... one of which I made an offer on. Figure it can't hurt to have one as a backup, in case it is just a loose connection (the set is 35 years old, even without the reset 10 years ago).

Unless what you want is 120/240 single.. then the AM-VM is set correctly, and you just need to make sure the switch in the back of the operator console is also set to 120/240 single. Does that make sense?

You need to make sure your AM-VM gauge is set to the appropriate 208v position, if that's how you intend on running this unit (by the setting I see in the video, it is set to 120/240 Single Phase). Do not adjust this gauge while the set is running. Your gauges are looking for voltage/amperage...

@Chrispyny... I've got the same issue on my 802a. I was in the midst of draining all fluids this past fall for the first time, and I can't even get my **** arm close enough to reach that block petcock (forearm hangs up on pulleys and belt). So I have an 802a that is partially drained, and ready...

I will be checking that switch. I don't think I indicated otherwise. Just a little dark at 0530 to do so. Thanks all the same.

@Chainbreaker: It was running fine in PRIME RUN AUX for 15 minutes, then I switched and it won't stay running in either.