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Another question, to make sure I'm not screwing myself up. Buddy and I temporarily removed the "INTERLOCK AIR CYLINDER". Wanted to make sure it wasn't sticking. I'm waiting for 2nd person, so I can hold the plunger while he operates the TC shifter, and we can verify the High/N/Low engagement...

I messed with it yesterday. The power divider is the handle by the door on the wrecker, correct? I could move it, but to ensure I was getting full motion and no sticking, I disconnected the linkage and operated it manually. That's the lever on the right, the rear side of the TC, correct? Also...

I must be one of the few that found it. Still had my Liked thumbs up.

Thanks for the link to that post. I have already tried all of those things. So far, no resolution yet. How much for a takeout shipped to 87144? I could pick it up from Fastenal or any shipping terminal in ABQ if that makes it less expensive to ship.

No, reverse works fine. I read several posts about the air in fuel giving the same results (reduced power is enough to run the engine, but not drive it). I have installed a temporary setup to get rid of the air, but so far, no change in performance.

Let me know if you find a less expensive option. I'm using a forklift connector now SB350 IIRC, but would love to go to Nato plugs if they weren't for god damn expensive.

I think my torque converter is locked up, but since I'm new to HD trucks, I need help to verify I'm on the correct path. Recently purchased a truck that sat for years. It was a runner last time it was used. When shifted into forward gear, the truck stalls. Dropped valve body -- found 1 valve...

People tend to overthink this and it makes it confusing. Think of what's happening, and perhaps it'll make things simple(r). If your connections are still in place, you have 2 wires going into your Nato slave connector. This makes it dead simple as one wire is ground and the other is 24V...

So I asked a question a few weeks ago about check balls in the valve body on 1991 M936A2. While taking mine apart, 2 balls fell out. Stupid rookie mistake. I asked about locations and was provided SM for MT654 that clearly showed 3 locations. I didn't think I could have lost one of the balls...

I dropped the MT654 valve body on my 1991 M936A2. Before I put new oil in, considering putting straight 10W vs OEM 10W40. If my reading is any good, it appears that the HD transmission fluid is straight 10W oil, which is basically a cold version of 10W-40 I'm looking for 1st hand opinions of...

On the MT654 valve body, are all 3 check balls used? When I took mine out, I only located 2 out of the 3 balls. While it's possible that I dropped/lost one, the area was clear of clutter, and parts cleaner is brand new with new fluid, which is to say that it's easy to spot lose parts, even...

Thank you so much

Please take a picture with a phone, or screen capture and post it or PM me. Or, share the PDF with me.

Need help. 1991 M936A2 with standard Allison setup. Took valve body apart to clean it and loosen the stuck valve. During the teardown, 2 small balls fell out. Need to figure out where both go! Closest I came up with is SM1317EN (page 118) but that covers MT653 and lists 1 check ball...

Absolutely agree. The guys were talking about 500W loads, or about 4.2A.

You're the first person I've heard of that still uses X-10 -- that's awesome. I've moved on from the analog X-10 comms to digital. Glad to hear that it's still working great for you. That clicking noise you hear is a relay -- that's what you want. The other type is normally a fast switching...

Also, I would look into WiFi or PLC (Power Line Carrier), sometimes called UPB (Universal Powerline Bus) smart appliance devices. You can use Alexa, Google voice, or just your phone to turn on a plug that's attached to your block heater. Just make sure it's an appliance (or relay) device and not...

So where do I get the most cost-effective block heater for my 3126?

You shouldn't have to do any crawling. As I explained last week, if you grab a lead wire (any insulated wire or even an extension cord) and a multimeter, you can get this figured out in less than 10 minutes. Set multimeter on continuity or resistance test and go to town with it. With all...

Yes. 2 are 24V. I imagine that one for the starter and the other one into the cab. 1 is 12v 1 is gound.