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I cut half the handle off of all mine, it fits in the holder better, and is actually usable on the lugs this way.

No tank removal necessary for the leaks, only the front panel needs to come off (the one the fill neck attaches to) not to hard. I got a rubber pipe adapter from lowes(3in to 4in I believe) It was not direct fit(I could not find anything standard that would work) I cut it in half, boiled it, and...

If anyone has a set that leaks when its moved or when its filled up to the brim, the fillerneck/tank rubber is rotted.

You may try smokstac, and your local Cat dealer.

My pumps on the units Ive got run all the time aswell.

Zarathusta(spelling?) had an article about the fuel level floats sticking. And guyfang has mentioned the guts can fall out of them. He mentioned looking in the tank first off for the guts, then moving on to remove the panel and test them.

Looks like you got lucky! You might not have got much oil in the cylinders depending on how level the set is, or the whole qt may have went in one cylinder idk.. If it makes a full rotation by hand(no hydrolock) you could try dead crank as angus mentioned, than move on to start. If it does...

I have put a heat lamp(kind used for the chickens) inside enclosures and been warm enough to melt the ice. Just lay it in there away from rubber parts and lightly close the door. What is the temp there?

I bent the fuel rail back just slightly to much, was able to reach my finger in the rear pump's hole and bend it back just a tad. So if youre having trouble getting the rear pump to stay engaged to the fuel rail(and have tried setting the fuel control lever stop as Guy previously mentioned)...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125824-Picked-up-3-MEP-802A-gensets-and-will-be-documenting-making-them-all-runners-here&highlight=documenting To do it right, you are gonna have to pull the head and assess the damage. Also the oil bypass is low enough to get rusty in the crankcase...

This^ The larger engine will use just slightly more, but not even enough to worry about, the fuel used is directly related to the load applied, regardless of engine size. So if youre on the fence about the 803-802, you won't regret the 803.

I have used 2 layers of carpet foam and 1 layer plywood on a enclosure and it dropped from 84db to 75db at 7 meters. I bought a level 1 sound attenuated enclosure from them(paid high dollar for it too) and my rigged enclosure did better.

Oh ok, well if you already built the load bank may aswell use it! My only problem with choosing the 802 over the 803 is that they are costing about the same, might aswell have the extra capacity.

I wouldn't worry about wet stacking to much, the 803 is a very good size for the average home. If the water heater cuts on with the well pump cutting on intermittently (like taking showers) it will be enough to keep it dried out. The only time I would worry about it stacking is when everyone...

I hope I haven't bent the rail to far back the other way. It felt very smooth though, and feels fine when moving the control lever, but I can see even a slight bind could cause an issue. Im gonna run it some, hopefully it is just some air in the lines, I didn't bleed very thoroughly this time.

When first started(no load, 40 degrees F ambient) it begins long oscillation, gradually shorter, until finally leveling out. After warmed to 140-150 according to meter, when applying heavy load, it begins short oscillation, grower longer. When warmed fully the problem pretty much goes away.

I have developed a surge when cold and when heavily loaded.

Found a rubber adapter at lowes I was able to make fit by boiling it soft and stretching it over the tank inlet.

I am interested in db reduction from the rubberized coating, I had considered it. Are you going to coat the roof panels as well?

If it's a John Deere 4039T I would go to your local dealer.