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Well it is running as good as it gets without buying new pumps, I would replace them too, but kraft wants over 3 bills a piece so I'm gonna hold off on them. It will run all I need it to, no smoke, vibrates some still, but I'm happy.
I opened up the tank side of it and discovered the rubber...
I checked one in a insulated room with my radioshack meter. It dropped from the rated 70db to 60-62db. Outside the room sounded like an ac unit running maybe a large fan...
Reminds me of something I heard about the (very)large stationary engines, they pump the oil out of the engine(hundreds of gallons) they filter, test, and restore it with additives, then pump it back into the engine.
Hard to see, but if you look at the "tang" on the right side of the photo, it is bent in a way that holds the rail away from the pump slightly, and makes it more prone to pop out. I was surprised how easy it was to bend back. Hopefully now the rear pump will engage the rack better and I can get...
I set the pumps, as per the lister article Guy provided, and got it to pull 7200 watts without bogging. I believe I can tune it alittle better, but I'm afraid my fuel rail may be bent, as I could not really "feel" the rear pump through the start/stop lever when setting it, and when using a...
If I HAD to leave mine outside, I would lay a piece of plywood on top(or gorilla tape again) and keep it mothballed. Paint the plywood camo.
If you like your tarp setup, I would suggest using tyvek, it may prevent as much moisture from building up.
As mentioned, they do have drains and they do get clogged, at which point water will flow through the radiator, into the bottom of the set, and out a large drain hole in the center of the set.
Before I had mine on castors I had to leave it out for a couple months, I taped every inlet/outlet...
Haha, They are pretty crappy. Ive almost got 200 hrs on mine. Besides as you mentioned, various fasteners creeping loose, having to loctite and re-tighten them, replacing hoses and fixing leaks, at 60 hrs the valve rocker bolt broke, a few hours later same one broke. I ground the rocker arm flat...
Had some time today to fit the new injector, sealed up perfect. Doesn't smoke a bit, much smoother running too. Still alittle under powered, gonna try balancing the fuel pumps as Guy mentioned and see what I can get.
I have a knock off yanmar, and it was definitely stressful relying on it. After it broke 2 valve rockers in a row, I modified them, we'll see how it works.
If the batteries were dead when you started it, it could cause strange readings. I would load test it for a few hours and then start diagnosing, it may clear itself up...
Would love to have some pictures of inside the enclosure... Just curious, Do you feel that it is actually the rated 70db? I...
I just find whatever is cheapest on craigslist, I have 6 or 7 of those 250gal fuel oil tanks. People are getting rid of them all the time here, I have cut them in half for watering troughs for the calves too. I also have used those chemical totes, they are very nice for moving water/whatever...
Ok, had some time to diagnose the leaky injector, it is the injector itself, a Stanadyne (new from the big auction site seller mss_diesel_solutions) Apparently the sealing surface of the injector has been warped, or was never machined properly to begin with, I bought 2 of them and the other...
Alright, got the rack engaged, the pump must have slipped while I was tightening it.
Ran it under load, still would not pull more than 6200watts, when I shut it down I noticed a hissing leak type sound. Cranked the engine and watched the injectors, noticed the front cylinder leaking smoke...
Well parts finally came in and I got it back together.
Note when ordering the fuel pump shims from Kraft power, the color codes are different and make sure you are both using metric or standard when ordering.
Also, don't get the decarb gasket set as it doesn't come with 2 gaskets you actually...
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