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Too funny! I had the same experience when I changed mine...tried to feel the fourth bolt...couldn't...took gloves off...still nothing...then felt the hole...ahaaaa! I also did not replace it.

As a related and totally thread-highjacking rant, I find it increasingly difficult next to impossible to source the automotive fine thread bolts and nuts I need for the truck. Everyone around here only seems to stock coarse thread and I do not really want to order 200 of every single frigging...

I just did spark plugs and coils on a 996. It was super easy with my three child-sized hands, foot-long fingers and jointless bendability. Grrrrrrrrr.

Maybe this thread helps: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-master-cylinder-rebuild-with-photos.84487/

Not even a "what DID I do" but "what I have to do" list....... - drove Lola about 200km to get her appraised (for insurance purposes) - the oil leak out of the bell housing raised its ugly head when she got really warm. She barfs a good half quart on shutdown and a has few drops when running...

You are absolutely right - no bead locks, so the deflated tire will pop off with the axle weight on it. I used all new 20 in O-rings between the rim halves. The 20 nuts holding the rim halves together are on 3/4 in studs and torque is ridiculous; I just use my 3/4 Milwaukee Fuel18 and cinch them...

I have random leakers on my truck. 11R20.00 on Canadian combat rims (similar to A3 rims). They hold air seemingly fine for a whole season. Then truck goes into storage. Almost guaranteed, a random tire is off the bead after 4 months. A few days ago, I noticed one rear tire off the rim. It had...

In the vicinity of where the data plate should be, there should/could be a clearly visible "TD" cast into the block. That would give an indication whether the engine is an older model or a newer "Thick Deck" block. As to who made it etc. - no dice without a data plate. There are usually some...

I have a soft spot for dump trucks w/w. They are cool.

If it was me interested in the engine, I would note that it is not seized, but that is about it. All the other components could be trash, as far as I am concerned. Maybe it will start with a carb rebuild. What if it has a severe knock? In order to run and actually be used, it may need a complete...

I'd start with an ad on this site with a video linked from youtube to show the free spinning engine.

A pic of that data plate from the starboard aft corner would be dandy. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

I bought and imported mine a long time ago and the process has changed. Essentially, now you have to use a customs broker to access the electronic customs system and get a notification number (AES) before you can get the export inspection on the US side done. Self-importing a vehicle has been...

There are different styles, but the essence is the same. Cut hose, insert fitting into hose end (some have barbs and need to be pushed/pressed on, others have a nut-type tightening mechanism) and couple to outlet. Easy to disconnect and many styles have an automatic shutoff when the fitting is...

The common point is the auxiliary power switch Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Depending which line, you can use DOT air line (replacement for the injector return line type of line; 1/4 inch with ferrules, inserts and fittings) or go to NAPA and get some line and quick change fittings for the larger diameter lines. Just bring all the takeoff stuff with you. Instead of...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/throttle-return-spring-diagram.131047/

I thought your truck in the pic looked like a war machine that "has seen things" . Very cool in a special kind of way. Like a truck (and occupants) that are ready for business, not to be messed with. "It just crushed three compact cars, I'd get out of the way" kinda vibe.

You mention that you used a "trickle charger". These are usually under or at 1A. With double batteries, you need a bit more charging "oomph" than that to resurrect two truly dead batteries. Maybe you did, maybe you had them on for a week and they are full. It is a great time to also check the...

If it helps any, where I am, the cargo securement must be able to support 50% of the item's weight in all directions and you need at least two tie downs for things over 5 ft in length but less than 10 ft. For a Jeep that would be at the minimum two straps that combined hold about 1250 lbs...