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That would make sense as the battery need-to-jump-situation came on very unexpected. Plus it might also address vanaisa’s above concerns. I’ll plan on pulling the starter and dropping it by the same place I had the #1 alternator rebuilt.

Yep- no change as I removed the fuses. Might the starter have been (and will be again) the problem/draw. Armature ending up touching vs. not touching the fields, as it stops spinning?

Tested .83-.84. Thought maybe it could be the battery. Bought/installed a new battery. Took the one that was in the truck to an auto parts store where a young fellow told me - “it’s good just needs to be charged”. Tested the alternators- both good. Just for grins re-ran the above… this time .03.

I tested both alternators - good voltage at idle. After the 40 mile trip, I did start it (to be sure it would), but turned it off almost immediately. Might the, hot, starter (if not at 100%) have sucked the batteries down? Is there anyway for the starter to cause/contribute to the drawn down...

Alternator(s) are next on the to do list

I think it was set to 20m (I guessed milliamperes). I have a new aftermarket alternator. I’ll probably install it while I have the #2 alternator rebuilt and see if that fixes the draw. And yes - it was taking a day or two to deplete the battery, enough to need a jump start.

I’ve been keeping an eye on front battery (about 5 months old) - occasionally having to jump it from another vehicle. The #1 alternator has been rebuild - dash lights show both alternators to be working. The morning after my 40 mile trip the battery was dead, but jumped off easily/quickly. I...

I hear that - it will definitely be somewhere down on my to-do list. Looks like parasitic battery drain might well have shot to the top of that list - but, that’s a tomorrow thing,

Looks like 24v on the passenger side and 12v to the gp solenoid?

Looks like 24 volt on the passenger side and 12 volt to the gp solenoid on the driver’s. Fusible links?

I’m pretty sure a 10 gauge as also cut from the passenger side. Is the fusible link anything special? If not, I’m guessing there is a size associated with it?

Once I remove the metal “plate/cover”. Will the repair be self evident? Is the fusible link anything special/different?

Considering the cut wires on either side - I’m guessing it had something to do with the radio. Yes, that metal thing behind the air cleaner. And yes (again) I know these wires need attention…

Next up: gauges, (new to me) back window and regulator, replace top seals/bed liner paint top… and the rest of the list

I have an M1009 - 3.08, so not so much screaming for me.

Looks like the Dakota digital interface will allow me to use the terminal on the alternator. Hopefully I’ll figure out how to calibrate it - if need be.

I think I have the Blazer somewhat ready to drive (fingers crossed/knock on wood). Now I’m thinking gauges. Water temp & oil pressure seem pretty straight forward. Will I need to know (somehow) the RPM’s so I can calibrate the tach… so I’ll know the RPM’s? Thinking of this tach - unless someone...

Flex plate wasn’t broken or bent, no loose bolts. Removed cover (started truck) no clunking sound, checked flex plate. Filed a bit off of the interior edge of the cover, reinstalled cover while lever towards the front of the motor. I find it kinda strange there was nothing to”fix”.

Hopefully it will only be loose bolts.

Good to know it wasn’t just my lacking computer skills. Thanks, R