Search results

I love the 4L80E in my 3/4 ton CUCV clone Suburban. However, I learned after 2 weeks in the mountains a year ago that there are troubles with engine braking and the 4L80E. There is an over running band that even when new can smoke itself in a few minutes. I have yet to find any rebuild or race...

80 or 90 amps in my mind needs 00 gauge or so wire from the battery to keep it safe and cool. Then use a relay that can handle at least 100 amps continuously to make it switched. Using an empty switched spot in the fuse panel to activate the relay.

One of the funny looking plugs in the top corner of the fuse box is switched. Put a volt meter on them and see which is switched. The plug that goes in there is a one off design for the rear AC on the Suburbans.

Follow the steps in the -20 as suggested above. The last few times any of mine did this just twisting the plug at the radiator cleared it up.

3rd on the TH400 is 1:1. I don’t think that can be changed. What is the gear vendor ratio? A google says .78. That would drop you to around 2400-2500 rpm at 60 mph with 32” tires. What is the actual measurement of your rear tires? How are you getting your speed reading? What gives your tach...

Pressure test the cooling system with a cold engine. If it won’t hold pressure you should be able to hear the leak.

It probably is from one of the cross over or block off plates as suggested above. Next, if they are all dry I suggest looking at the heater hoses at the firewall. If they are good and the valley is dry. Head gaskets are about all that is left near the rear of the engine.

You win.

Your choice on the wiring but a M35 front harness works very well on a M715. There will be some extra blinker wire stuffed behind the headlights. But, it works.

This is stupid expensive, but you get the idea: https://www.rigdsupply.com/products/rigd-ultraswing-multi-fit-spare-tire-hitch-carrier

The stock rear bumper is very flimsy as you have already figured out. I suggest starting from scratch or some kind of swing away mount that slides onto the shackle hook mounts. The shackle mounts are the most rigid and reinforced thing back there. Your add on receiver hitch is probably just as...

2500 rpm at the drive shaft is about all most NP200 transfer cases can stand without overheating. 4th gear in the T98 is 1:1 so 2500 engine rpm will get you 48 mph with stock 9.00-16 tires. The 11.00-16 Michelin’s make 2500 rpm 52 mph. Basically, you will get the same road speed as the bigger...

The return lines could be removed and the engine will run just fine. It will make a huge mess though. Putting a clear hose for the top of the IP return will let you watch for air bubbles to verify air is getting into the IP fuel supply. But, since you are running dry you already know that...

You know what happens when you assume? I did that to myself. I assumed the crew cab dually in your avatar was a Chevy. Sorry.

This is going to read as condescending. I don’t mean it that way. I just don’t know how to write it polite. How do you know the rpm is increasing when at operating temperature? Feel, sound or actual tachometer? If it really is increasing, then independent of a binding accessory such as a...

Does it speed up just a hair and smooth right immediately before it dies? That is a classic symptom of running the IP dry of fuel. His is your fuel filter, how much fuel in the tank, what shape are your fuel hoses in? This is a video I did about how to prime and start a dry IP. I let the...

Here is another one describing the ways of checking the timing in more detail:

Why, I just happen to have a video about that:

Any idea what your IP timing is? Or, are the hash marks lined up or even close?

It kind of reads to me like you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel system. Here is a video I made about intentionally running a 6.2 dry and then priming. It reads like yours is running about as long as mine did with no fuel: