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This is like asking what oil you should run in your engine. You will get lots of opinions. Just do it the way you want and are comfortable with. My opinion is that I don’t like pressure washers on engines that are going to be run again. I love pressure washers on engines coming apart. I like...

The -20 TM on page 2-69 says to unplug at the sensor with the key on and to ground it. If the light goes out then the sensor is bad. If the light doesn’t go out then you are supposed to remove the low coolant module near the fuse panel. If the light goes out then replace the module. If it...

Yes.

Another vote for the energy suspension mounts. You will feel more vibrations at idle in gear with a cold engine. But, everything stays in its place all the time which is good.

Yes, just looking at it one would think the timing was way retarded. I have done a couple of videos about this because it comes up a lot. Here is an intro about the marks and methods of checking the timing: Here is one where I go through the same thing on a running engine: Watch the...

People have put the M35 winch onto M715 trucks and used basically motorcycle chains and gears with some pillow blocks in the shaft to connect the down low shaft to the high up winch input. Putting an M35 winch on backwards would get the drive end on the passenger side. It is just straight...

At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs...

You wrote about bleeding the fuel, then the fuel filter swap. Do you mean you did bleed the new filter with the pink wire unplugged? Then it hasn’t started since? If that is the sequence then some air might have gotten in. That seems to always happen with me as well. I have found 45-90 seconds...

Are you by chance talking about the proportioning valve on a cross member under the radiator?

The return spring is pretty strong on those things. Once your foot takes up the slack at the throttle. everything should be tight and good.

All of mine have a lot of slop there and only have the cable end with a clip to hold it on.

I did. We were discussing Gasser trucks of the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. I have two REO M35 trucks and an AM General truck. I know others made them.

M34 and M35 were REO products. Totally different from the GM M135 and M211. I don’t think there are any common parts outside of the light switch and wire ends.

Drivers side is ALT 1 and charges the front battery. Passenger side is ALT 2 and charges the rear battery.

The CUCV is wired so the rear battery negative is connected to the positive of the front battery. If you look at the terminal the big wire goes to the front battery and the small red wire goes over to the diamond shaped Buss bar next to the glow plug relay. that is the 12 volt positive supply...

The negative of the rear battery is the positive of the front battery. I think you are correct that the isolated ground lug of ALT 1 is no longer isolated.

I put civilian ones in two of my trucks. Get the front and rear brackets that go with them. Then they fit and work perfect.

I had a Stanadyne guy tell me 5-8 year lifespan. that was 12 years ago. 2 of my 6.2 trucks are still on the the IP I acquired them with at least 10 years ago. Another engine is 11 years on a rebuild with no issues. Of course, the guy that makes money rebuilding them is going to say 5-8 years...

I have the same leak in one of mine.

Thanks Keith. I do have that manual but either never made it to section D or lost my mental image of it.