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I was so caught in thinking about his 12 volt conversion that I didn’t mention the diamond shaped part. What the manual calls the Engine harness block. thanks for reminding me.
Here is a video I made a few months ago about it:
A sudden off and then back on for no apparent reason almost always points to a loose or corroded connection. I suggest you start with removing each battery terminal, cleaning it and putting it back on. Do both ends of all 4 battery wires. Use sand paper, scuff pads, nail files or just a...
Nice progress. My forest service survivor had a very similar looking wiring mess.
Since David linked in his video channel. I might as well do the same. Here is one of mine about the forest service hard top and some options:
Don’t you just love having icicles on your truck after a wash?
I have been burned by that situation as well.
I have also been burned the other way. Not running vehicle well below market value with what I think is a simple fix. Everything I see looking at the vehicle supports my preconceived theory. I don’t dare mention it or attempt the fix until the...
The multifuel engine will pull start with amazingly little effort or speed. Getting pulled in 1st low range will generate speeds up to around 5 mph when on the throttle and as long as you have a good sized flat spot. The truck will drag itself a stop pretty quickly. So, pull starting can be done...
Life cones at you fast. I think that is a line for a commercial or something. But it sure is true. I went looking for this thread and was amazed it has been 3 months since I posted to it. I have more reasons to confirm that I am an idiot.
When I built the truck I didn’t have a crack free...
Does the engine run good? If so, don’t stress too much about those 2 cylinders. Yes, they are below spec but unless it is the head gasket. You probably won’t feel the difference.
Pouring a cap full of oil into the cylinder through the glow plug hole and then doing a compression test will boost the psi if it is rings. No boost and it is valves or head gasket.
A universal swivel 15mm 12 point socket and a long extension will let you get to the drivers side IP hold down nut snaking it through the intake runners. The passenger side and top nut can be accessed with a regular box end wrench. I always just use the throttle cable bracket to move the IP...
OK, I didn’t catch that in your first post.
With a cold engine, try pulling all 3 belts off. Start it up and see if the humming and harmonic are still there. You can run and rev the engine for about 3-5 minutes without the water pump doing its thing.
The stock air filter also makes an annoying...
You only mention speeds and engine as the cause.
How is your transmission mount? I had a loose one in a truck that caused a bad harmonic at 50-60 mph.
Are the front hubs un locked and have you verified they are unlocked by turning the front drive shaft and watching both axle shafts spin...
It might not start. But, damage wise at idle. No damage will result. Just do all of your IP turning with the engine off.
I would also suggest warming the engine up before you do any moving of the IP. Eliminating the glow plug system from the starting equation.
My 6.2 powered M715 did that to me one day. I was low on fuel and it died when I was going down hill. The starter was enough to get it primed and running again on flat ground. The nearest fuel station was up hill though. I didn’t make it up the hill and the batteries couldn’t spin the engine...
When the 6.2 IP is running out of fuel the engine actually speeds up at idle for 5-20 seconds in my experience. A 1028 has a single 20 gallon rectangular shaped tank with the pick up in the middle. 1/8 tank on the gauge is pretty much on “walk.” Slight up or down truck angle or constant...
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