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Depends upon what year the trucks are and how they were registered. If over 26K GVW, which absolutely should have been noted on VIN Inspection form by VIN inspector, you can either register it commercially or privately. Both will be dependent upon the dry weight of the vehicle for registration...

No idea, but from your description it wouldn't hurt to double-check it.

Absolutely correct. I tend to go the radiator route (as well as removing the driver's side fender) since I do 99% of work on Deuces by myself, it's easier for me to do everything from the driver's side front wheel area...I can see the pointers and can reach the #1 cylinder valves from the same...

I pulled another HH last weekend on an older 5-ton tractor with MF engine (LDS-465); previous owner stated that it "ran just fine but it just died one day" and wouldn't restart. So it sat for many years. When I pulled the HH, the quill shaft was fine but the main spring had broken in two, and...

Use the LDT-465 mark. I just worked on another friend's IP last weekend; he could get it to start with ether, but it would instantly die as soon as it fell below 1300 rpms. I pulled the hydraulic head to check the fuel button on bottom of quill shaft, and sure enough it was off. The button...

Guess I need reading lessons; I read it as he was trying to get hub off of spindle.

Behind the hub nuts is a spiral-type lock ring; find the end and start working it out of its groove all the way around, and it will come off. That will allow the hub to be pulled off. This is something specific to the A2s it seems.

My trailer needs new tires & my truck has an exhaust manifold gasket leak...I'm down for at least another month. :( ETA: PM sent.

I just order the CARC 383 Green from Rapco Parts just up the turnpike from you...it's cheap enough in the rattle cans and holds up pretty well.

Just be careful, those spring packs are heavier than they look.

Hope it's uneventful & successful. [thumbzup]

Just loosen that bolt (might be one on other side of trunnion) and you should be able to remove spring pack.

No difference; same mark. After following steps outlined in TMs to properly time your IP (not hard, just tedious), change your fuel filters, check the pickup hose on your in-tank lift pump, and try adding some Seafoam to your fuel...it makes an instant difference every time I've done this...

That's great! Better to build it to your dreams and enjoy driving it, rather than seeing it rot away in a field somewhere or get parted out/scrapped. With that little Detroit, the best way to ensure long life with it once it's built is to run the proper type of oil: Detergent-type low-ash...

That sucks! Wish I were closer to help out... I agree with NDT, cage those brakes and head for home before something worse happens! Best of luck.

They're not AN; for the most part, they're NPT.

Sorry I don't remember exactly, but it was less than a complete replacement.

I had the same problem; even ran separate ground wires from steering column to cab, relocated flasher unit from fender to firewall, wiggle tests, cleaned ground connections, etc... I finally ended up doing as other members have, and made my own flasher unit. Problems solved and it has worked...

I haven't had any problems since rebuilding mine; well worth the effort.

:whistle: I can nither confirm nor deny....