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There are several threads on this. The gist is, loosen the injector lines before re-tightening. They seat better that way. Do not over-tighten. Check the hex plug in the middle. It should be very tight. It is a tapered fit and torqued ape-tight, but if they leak a flat copper washer under the...
Frank, good point and, yes, only a little while back when I swapped tanks! I cleaned the in tank pump and put a new hose on. Made sure she works.
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It does run without the pump..it actually starts fine without the in tank pump. As far as I can see there is one scenario where it appears to at least occasionally die with the in tank pump off and that is going from a longer stretch of WOT to idle (which is exactly the situation at the...
Very nice score! Is that the seal setup from the late model 3053 transmissions that actually had an input shaft seal? I know that a while back, Jeepsinker tried very hard to make a modified part and I think Steve 6x6x6 did as well. I can't remember what came of it. Mine definitely has the...
No, 12V is not correct. You should see 21-24V there......UNLESS perhaps you put your (-) on the "wrong" battery terminal and only have one battery in play? I would double check with a different ground.
If you have regular 24V headlights (incandescent or halogen) they would not light up well on...
I wanted to provide an update, in case someone experiences similar issues.
- the aux switch ("main switch") was defective; no more sudden switching off of all gauges and the in-tank pump while driving, with the new switch installed. I have not opened the old one (yet) to find out what the...
One issue I have seen described repeatedly by others is the vaseline like lubricant becoming hard, blocking movement of the main piston or the proportioning valve. Let us know if your cleaning and reassembling made a functional difference.
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You bought Benjamin Button's truck! https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0421715/plotsummary
When the odometer reaches zero, all the steel returns to its original form! Better fix it before that!
Ok, I admit...looking at it from the distance and angles you took the pictures from I would never suspect that this was anything but the real deal. Really nice!
Good point. Read up on brake bleeding. For the Deuce, you really want a pressure bleeder. "Conventional " brake bleeding pumping the brake pedal simply doesn't work well. It has inconsistent results on the air assisted hydraulic brakes.
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It is probably a remote master cylinder reservoir, rather than a remote mc per se.
If the brakes work fine and have been filled with DOT3 the first question is, why change? DOT3 works fine in the system.
Bleed them every 2-3 years with a quart of new DOT3 to take care of any moisture. Golden...
I am glad the OP and family were safe and got back on the road.
I felt for them and tried, but there is only so much one can do from a distance. Outstanding response from the SteelSoldiers, I am proud that in a time where selfishness seems the norm there are people willing to drop what they are...
Francis, that is a good thought. If you are right, it may be ...dare I say simple...by moving the power supply to the correct side of the low air buzzer.
Ok, so what changes with the engine running? On a stock truck - nothing. In your case, kinda hard to tell. Why would one go through the trouble of installing a brake pedal switch? Does your truck retain the hydraulic pneumatic booster (air pack)?
It appears as if the feed supplying the lights is...
It's the closest used one I could find..about 220 miles from you. I was thinking, grab a rental, drive down, get it and plunk it in, if everything else fails. Not trying to be armchair quarterback. You are in the heat of the action.
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