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Yep. Parking brake is my guess as well. I have done it 3 or 4 times in the last 18 years. The brake band is so saturated with gear oil you don’t notice the slight drag until it all burns off. Then the Hand Of God reaches down and stops you in a hurry with lots of smoke.

Both direct drive and redux starters are very easy to rebuild. The HMMWV -20 TM is a great resource with step by step instructions on how to do the redux.

Yes, under voltage on the starter will do tremendous damage to it. I did almost the same thing years ago. Only a slave from a running 24 volt truck would make it turn fast enough to start the engine. But the starter would be too hot to touch for more that a few seconds afterward.

I didn’t write enough in my response last night. Yes a not working or not wired up cold start advance solenoid will cause a puff or two of dirty white smoke and an engine acting like it is mad you woke it up. But, at most it will last 20-30 seconds when the temperature is above 40° out. One of...

White smoke that is greasy normally means cold engine. Puffy white smoke means coolant in one or more cylinder. Pull the radiator cap while the engine is running and see if you are getting signs of combustion pressurizing the coolant.

The museum hasn't put up next years schedule yet: https://americangimuseum.org/events/ Traditionally it has been the 3rd weekend in March. We will see.....

I agree. Negative pressure can only result from the mechanical lift pump not pumping. The IP is doing all the work in other words. Or, as suggested above you have a clogged sock in the tank and the mechanical pump just can't get anything to pump. It looks like you have the PSI gauge in the...

Drivers side alternator charges the front battery and keeps the truck running. Passenger side alternator charges the rear battery and is only used for a stock starter motor and stock glow plug system. If your truck starts up like it should. Less than a second of cranking time. Then that back...

It reads like you have a broken foot, need to drive your CUCV to work and now it can't be driven because your alternator rear housing is broken. Correct? Put your passenger side alternator on the drivers side, wire it up and isolate the wires that went to the passenger side alternator so they...

No need to pull the intake. Just pull the air filter and use a flashlight to look around. I was motivated by this thread and cooler weather to come home and crawl around my M715. I found a probably original house between the fuel tank and lift pump. I replaced it and all is well again. I can’t...

Remove the hose from the lift pump to the fuel filter at the fuel filter. It should be under pressure and squirt fuel so have a rag handy. If you just get a dribble, then pressure is being lost either back through the mechanical lift pump or from a hose or at the IP. Does your new fuel filter...

Start at the firewall. If you use a 10mm socket to unbolt the wires at the back of the fuse panel. Everything will unplug. That plug is actually 3 different plugs snapped together. Rear harness, under hood and front lights. Use appendix E from the back of the -20 manual to verify you are getting...

Unfortunately, no. You have low pressure fuel at the inlet to the Injection Pump. Now, the pump has to take the fuel and turn I into timed high pressure pulses. You do have several options: Don't touch anything and just crank the engine for around 10-15 seconds. Wait 2 minutes and repeat...

I don’t know what a holding loop is. I even did a search and couldn’t find anything related to any Diesel engine besides common rail ones. What are you trying to do?

The stock direct drive support bracket went out of production a few years ago. Only available used now. The reduction drive starter motor bracket is still available new.

I always thought the knurling was there because that is the part that is supposed to be in contact with the aluminum starter motor nose. Being a US made part 35 years ago, tolerances were not exactly all that tight in the design and even looser in practice. Plus, there is the support bracket...

I am not trying to pick a fight with any one. The reason I suggested replacement of the regulators is I used to think a few extra volts with no load meant no big deal I can just turn on the lights and all will be fine. One of my M1009's was always at the top of the green and 28.8-29.2 volts...

Anymore that 14.4 volts points to a bad voltage regulator. I suggest replacement. Delco 27 si alternator is what the trucks came with.

I think it is Wreckerman that describes the window crank design best: "Invented by an idiot after consulting a committee of morons." It reads like you have the tail gate laying flat with the panel off to access the inside already and the glass either removed or out of the way and supported...

Glad to help. Be nice to those switches by the way. Nobody is making them anymore.