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Montaillou, does the mechanic that will drop the diffs with the lockers back into the axle housing know that he will have to grind out the housing for clearance?
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I researched this question two years ago and while I do not remember all the details, it led me to buy John Deere break in oil and run the engine for 500 or so km on that, followed by oil and filter change.
I understand that part of the process is a deliberate brief breaking of the oil film to...
Maybe this helps? https://blog.uscargocontrol.com/differences-grade-70-chain-grade-80-chain-grade-100-chain/
In this day and age, I am not a fan of towing with a chain at all. I strongly suggest fabric straps. They are gentler on both vehicles and superior to a chain when it comes to weight vs...
Thick gear oil is a worth a try if you already have it. I poured some Lucas thick-as-honey heavy duty oil stabilizer into mine and it seems to mostly stay in.
I used a two arm puller with the arms turned to the outside to slip through the hole and hook behind the carrier and grab it. Then I placed a piece of steel across the axle opening for the center screw rod to push against. Pop. Done.
and if you do not want to install an engine or transmission heater, there are magnetic versions available:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/300w-2-5a-magnetic-engine-oil-heater/A-p4270100e
Same for Ontario, Canada. I decided against farm plates (only valid up to 60km radius around farm; could have gotten them then but no longer now) and against historical plates - because the other restriction for historical is total weight of the rig. Technically, only up to 4500 kg (9000 lbs)...
I am not sure about the "not the right nozzle for the injector" business. I thought the nozzles were interchangeable, regardless of the injector (shim or no shim style). Not sure what the problem is?
I think it was rustystud who posted about the "CuNiFer" lines. I have used them now as well, learning to do the inverted flare, and they are indeed a pleasure to work with. Absolutely fine for our trucks.
AFAIK there is no "low pressure rated" brake line. Either it is brake line or it isn't...
The nice thing about carrying it there is that it does not interfere with, lets say, getting a load of gravel. As for removing and putting it back, you can easily slide the extensions out on the deck and move the pipes individually. That is how I put it back up there. No need to strain your back.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2520-246-34.pdf
This should answer your questions. The Spicer 3052 transmission was used in the gasser trucks (M44) and has a different shift pattern than the 3053 used in the multifuels. 5th gear is direct drive in the 5052 and OD in the 5053. 4th...
I know that awful feeling....and the relief when you find out that it is a quick fix!
Good that you found that now. If you had run the engine, you would also have burnt you hand on the exhaust manifold for good meaure while tightening the nut, just so Murphy can have a better laugh.
A great time to to these little projects such as the pyro. If you are bored you can service the air compressor! Let me know if you want me to come up with other odd jobs for you! :-)
Urantian, I would AT LEAST install a battery disconnect ASAP, even if you do not plan to hunt for the problem (which, as you explain, may or may not really exist). That way, you can make your truck electrically safe. The last thing you want is two 24V batteries setting your truck alight and burn...
This is THE failure mode for the hydraulic brake light switch. Leave it plugged on the hydraulic side and replace with an air pressure operated brake light switch, similar to the upgrade the military did. Less failure-prone, safer and easy to change if need be without having to bleed the brakes...
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