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Matches my observations as well!

I bite on the tire question. You anticipate low mileage use on sand. That means the tires will run at low psi most of the time. That's hard on the sidewalls. The truck will then sit outside for long periods (and you will air up and down six tires each time?). More bulging sidewalls. If you buy...

Are you planning to adjust the valves (there is a helpful drawing on this site so you only have to spin the engine twice), adjust the fuel and then check again re smoke? I also found that I could not hear the turbo well. Is it spinning?

Did you stir it up? If not, leave it alone for now and tackle after the parade. Keep spare filters on hand. here are ideas for after: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101019-Cleaning-out-a-fuel-tank-any-ideas

I have one... out of the military kit. Let me know if you cannot find one closer to you and I can mail it.

The trick is to have items on the list that can only be completed with a working Deuce!

Mine (installed by the military) was wired like that as well...you can easily forget to switch off the fan and it will drain the batteries down. I have since removed the heater and shelved it, so problem is solved.

Thanks porky for that reminder. The short story for me is "just because you CAN does not mean you SHOULD". The military cares about getting the mission done. If that means you have to put some mystery stuff in the tank that burns and gets you there, so be it. Ideally, the truck will make it...

Good to hear. We all love simple fixes to what could be complex problems.

Line connection can be loose but do not go all ape when tightening. The head can also crack, causing it to leak. Also there is a hex head centre bolt. Make sure that is tight. After cleaning everuthing, run it briefly and see if you can determine where it leaks from. If it is the hex center...

As Big Tom said - and do it before the grenading compressor sends metal shavings into your oil stream!

Went on a 65 mile long drive, country roads and gravel roads, up and down through the woods. Absolutely nothing happened or went wrong. Just an enjoyable Sunday evening drive. :-) Deuce got up to temp and through all gears and well exercised. IP is wet. I suspect HH O-rings are in my future.

Before you hit the fuel or turbo, check the throttle linkage and make sure that full throttle means the IP commands full fuel. Mis-adjusted linkage or even a bent pedal can cause the IP to never go wide open. Even with the C-turbo you should get at least 7 psi of boost! My (brand new) D makes...

It's a diesel and they need fuel, air and compression to run. That's it. - you have fuel to the injectors. Good. Does the hydraulic head at the injection pump deliver fuel at the required pressure to the injectors and do the injectors actually open when they should? We don't know. The right way...

I suggest TM 9-2320-209-20-2-2 http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-209-20-2-2.pdf Start on page 26-12 and work through the flow charts. Logical approach, seeing that some of your lights work and others do not. Could end up being the light switch itself, a bad lead, a bad...

You, sir, do not futz around. :-)

From TNJ Murray http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryvehicles/index.cfm?shop/product/id/78F67419-F62A-A8A0-21DC51C2D4508AE8

What he said was what the shop told me as well regarding resurfacing. They checked the heads, were fine with the deck but all up in arms about cracks and wanted to magnaflux and weld everything. In the end, I mounted a set of brand new OEM heads that came assembled with new valves. Less work for...

Any shop that does boat covers should be able to do it.

I went through that with two shops that would not touch the heads without a full set of specs. Look at TM-2815-210-34-2-2, Page 4-207 and following for the heads Page 4-220 and following pages for valve specs. Page 4-228 has a diagram. TM can be downloaded here...