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If your truck read the repair manual, that finding would mean that it is not the pistons/rings that are at fault but the intake or exhaust valves. Matches your impression that the valve train was stuck. You can roll the dice and hope that it is only surface contamination on the valve, causing...

With my Waterloo OD 5th the shift 4-5 is similar to 3-4. There is a significant rpm drop. It is not "bad" or difficult, but with the limited amount of gears the truck has, "winding it up" to 2400 or so makes for a good shift. It is not so important on level roads, because the LDS pulls right...

Yes, fresh filters, you might consider back blowing the fuel lines from the tank with compressed air with the filters off. Fuel will spray. Gunk might come flying out. A quick check of the copper fuel line that crosses under the radiator (sometimes it gets crushed) and then re-assess top speed!

Those tires are neat. What size are they? I really like the proportions of the short wheelbase. I might have said that..once..or twice...

Interesting questions. After a cold start, the massive cast iron block and heavy heads soak up a lot of heat until the coolant starts getting warm. Someone filmed the warm-up phase with a thermal imaging camera TIC and it showed how unequal the heat distribution is, causing stress on the head...

A lot of convenience in a full gasket set... Of course, you can have a couple of sheets of gasket material handy and a ball peen hammer and a couple of 9mm cartridges and hammer out whichever gasket you need. Very satisfying, but it is a lot more time consuming. The intake and exhaust gaskets...

Here is some good, concise advice on the matter. http://www.bcforestsafe.org/files/Split%20Rim%20Safety%20July%2017.pdf They recommend, for REMOVING wheel assemblies, to deflate first, then loosen lug nuts. Makes sense, because you do not know for sure if the tire has been abused at low air...

It is always nice to see that in this community people make the extra effort and help each other out. Now, I hope Elijah95 or Aolinge1 are taking pictures, or it didn't happen!

This thread might come in handy: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?80417-Winch-Teardown-Q&highlight= The TM is here: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-209-34-2-3.PDF

The drum lock itself is intact? Can you see the locking pin coming out when you pull the handle? I am thinking, drum getting a good whack, locking pin might break off but stay stuck, preventing the drum from turning. With the winch clutch disengaged and the drum lock disengaged, the drum should...

Your drum lock disengages? The winch clutch lever is stuck? Do not use a hammer and wail on it. Check the shear pin. It could be broken and you can't relieve tension on the winch because of that. It may not need much turning...quarter or half a turn and all is good. You "can" TAP the clutch...

Just be careful...they are starting to look too good for something that goes onto a military vehicle! You may have to take a rattle can and do some overspray on the tires so people can go "Oh, yes, that IS military original!"

For $310 or whatever superb deal you got on this multi, the most economical decision is indeed to swap engines. When I added up the cost of parts for my LDS engine refresh, ignoring labour hours, I could have bought a government rebuilt engine at the current retail going rate .... Now that I...

Sharapnel, look at this thread regarding the trunnions: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?71520-preventable-rear-suspension-failure Post #30 in that link has more info, including a link to gringeltaube's pic on putting a grease zerk in the cap.

The drag link is adjustable at both ends and can be the cause for quite some "slop".

Open up the trunnion caps as well, do the grease zerk mod and see if you have bearings or bushings and if they are still ok! Easier with the wheels off.

You can try member CARNAC. He used to have access to this information. He also has a requirement on how to receive the query.

I was thinking "wow, this dude is way braver than I am!" when I saw the ratty sheet metal. But your explanation makes perfect sense...build your bodyworking skills and restore a truck at the same time. I hope you will keep us updated!

The Norwegian Deuce variant M621 had a basic ROPS that replaced the first bow over the bed. Pics courtesy of cranetruck and clinto. The massive steel bow is braced back to the outside of the bed sides. Probably works for slow speed rollovers.

I replaced the old torn un-insulated canvas top with an insulated vinyl and second what MWMULES said!