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Mik is a great guy; he's always willing to go the extra mile for a fellow SS member. Good job Mik! Well-deserved!

FANTASTIC, great job!

Alabamafrog, welcome aboard! Just make sure you use one of those 5-tons to tow your recoveries out with, and you'll be just fine. In fact, I remember reading about one member who added a gooseneck hitch to the rear of his 5-ton cargo truck, which might be an easier option for you. As they...

WOW, way to beat up on the new guy! Alabamafrog, is that you from the ATF? If so, welcome aboard...and if you'd have swapped in that Cummins like I told you, you wouldn't have taken such a razzing about towing that 5-ton! Just kidding... You'll find that these auctioned trucks are going to...

:ditto: I remember KW COEs having the hydraulic jack arrangement as well to lift the cab.

So then on the infamous CL, that means it's really worth asking $750 or $800, correct? :grin:

Does that mean what I think it does, that this belongs in the classifieds?

I'm subscribed since I'll be doing this very soon. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, as I frequenly seem to be... but with a 4-pin relay, doesn't that act as a SPST switch: 24V In, Ground, 12V In, 12V Out...single 24V In switches 12V In/Out on & off? So a 5-pin relay would act as a...

Do not use Jet Fuel.

LOL! I just picked up an M105A2 that was marked "CARC 2002" and check out the rust damage on it:

Got the rust-cancer area all cleaned out, and about 2 pounds of dirt & debris blown out of the underbody supports. Cut to size repair pieces of 3/16-inch steel sheet and got them welded into place. Now to clean up the vertical side supports and reweld them in place, along with some steel angle...

HOLY MACKEREL, the rust damage is more extensive than I thought! Just cut out an entire corner this morning before work. I'll replace everything with fresh clean sheet steel and some steel angles for corner reinforcements. I'll weld up everything nice and tight afterwards, taking my time so...

My pleasure, best of luck on your conversion! Be sure to post pics when you do, there's always something that could benefit others (and me!). Thanks!

Did some rust removal today on the second M105A2; got to cut out a panel and remove some other rusty bits. And made a surprising discovery when I removed the rusty panel: the body reinforcement gussets are LOADED with dirt and debris! No wonder this thing is a rustbucket. Now I'm...

OK, got a chance to snap some pics and post them here. These are of the first trailer I've completed and registered...this shows the hydraulic brake line around the landing gear, and close-ups of the tongue mounting. I wrapped 3/8-inch fuel line around the brake line to prevent chafing/wear...

You can get more info on the these red 3/4-inch LED marker clearance lights from the vendor I bought them from: R&P Carriages They have them in many different colors too: amber, green, blue, etc...with lots of chrome trim mounting rings and whatnot. Hope this helps.

OK, I'm a total idiot....as far as the 3/4-inch round LED marker lights go, when I mentioned that I couldn't figure out how to fit the rectangular connector plug through the 3/4-inch diameter hole drilled for the light to fit through, I just had a Homer Simpson :doh: realization: the rubber...

Ron, thank you! Glad to help; I'm no expert, but just passing along what I've found and tried in order to help others. Here's a link to a bolt-on lunette ring brake actuator coupler (aka "surge coupler"): http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Titan/T4093200.html I like eTrailer.com; any...

That's it! It works well and is plenty strong for converting an M105 trailer at a reasonable cost.

I haven't seen any type of mechanical "fail-safe" mechanism in any of the air systems I've disassembled so far...just an air diaphragm that pushes into the master cylinder to engage brakes. If you open the drain petcock and leave it open, there's no air pressure to activate the...