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That number doesn't cross to an NSN. What's your truck serial number?

1/4 socket extension or a large flat blade screwdriver works just fine. I've done 4 trucks worth that way. No leaks. Just use your brain and be careful. Seal drivers for this application are only for when you are going to rely on 18 y/o kids to install them and every problem is a nail because...

Probably ill-advised but I had a bunch of people on speed dial in case I ran into anything and I'm ex-Army Motorpool and a master mechanic on the civilian side plus my Army buddy was a jet mechanic on A-10's before he switched branches. We ran into a couple minor things but made it back in one...

Oh yeah. The seats SUCK and lack of AC.... Those two upgrades help a lot with passenger attitude. I rolled mine home 2,700 miles with an old Army buddy so we had no issues.

No the data plates do not say A1R. They always say A1. A1R trucks are serial numbers starting at 100,000 in about 2004.5. All trucks built after the C7 change are A1R and were built by either S&S, Armor Holdings, or BAE. Your truck is most likely a BAE truck. They really cleaned up and fixed a...

That's an "A1R" - get used to calling it that so people know you have a C7 truck when you are asking questions. They are quite different in a number of ways besides being very rare in the civilian world. Welcome to the exclusive club. What year and what is your serial number? Lots of people...

I'm not sure you would be able to really tell the difference. On perfectly flat ground, running the same RPM.... theoretically the 3.07 would have the advantage in terms of lower driveline speeds for the same road speed but may put you farther away from peak torque. If you adjust your gear/speed...

Probably very little difference in practice. Peak torque should be peak efficiency so the closer you are the better. Mileage depend on many factors. What was their speed? What was their tire pressure? Average altitude? Average temperature? Wind resistance? It can be pretty complicated. My...

Guys do like to disconnect the alarm buzzers - could be one of the wires wasn't properly secured and insulated.

Would be fairly easy to do since all the logic is in the controller and the PCU just has an extra control line. You would just have to add the control line from the cab to the front QRV and leave the existing line to run the rear axle(s). And of course any wiring between the controller and PCU...

You can replace the bulbs with LED's if you like. I did all of mine. This is just one example of many that are available: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYPYWNY

Wow. Just wow at the MME shenanigans. "They go through the truck top to bottom"....... my anus. Hub service IS PART OF the annual service on these trucks. I don't know how you can claim you have serviced a truck that hasn't had all the boxes checked on AT LEAST the annual service that the...

You need the A1 schematics: https://archive.org/details/fmtv-schematics-a-0-a-1-r

Some of us just like gadgets and enjoy playing with obscure things that most people can't have. Also the system is fascinating in how complex yet marvelously simple it is at the same time. Don't try to make sense of it. It's the difference between jumping out of my truck to throw up the garage...

According to @hike in this post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ctis-pressure-settings-increase-no-programming-transducer-or-module-required.216446/post-2546942 You need to pull pins G, W, and X. You should read through that entire thread. TONS of information there on the system...

You can also just pull the pins out of the older controller that are responsible for burning out the resistors. They work fine and you can still communicate with them via J1708. And you need two of these to replace your burnt J1939 resistors...

I'm going to guess it depends on the anchor. And probably the boat?

Yeah unfortunately it is probably THE biggest safety issue on these trucks. You got a free militarized class 8 semi truck...... that just be the way the cookie crumbles sir.

They were problematic when old. And haven't been manufactured since at least 2011. Sidewall failures on these trucks often result in a roll-over accident. Usually crush the cab - often with fatalities. The military won't mount any tires more than 6-7 years old for good reason...

Things like the type of bolts used, type of grease seals, etc. stuff that really doesn't matter. The newer Meritor joints come with break away bolts that snap off at the correct torque. Older ones come with normal bolts, etc. They all work fine.