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That winch fairlead on the bumper is actually a smart idea, given that there is no auto-spool and any angled pull leaves you with a winch cable mess that you have to clean up after. It seems sturdy and would look bada** when restored.
Go to a well known auction site for prices. Perhaps 20% or so under the price of a stock rad. No, it is not about finding an OEM one; many people asked for alternatives and I thought it would be interesting to compile a few ideas.
In the last while, questions have come up regarding alternatives to the OEM radiator, so I though I'd start a thread to collect wisdom.
Here are the specs on the OEM radiator:
Characteristics Data Response for NSN 2930-00-563-7235
Item Name: RADIATOR,ENGINE COOLANT
Requirement Statement...
Common wisdom from a couple of threads about LDT/LDS differences is that the INTAKE rocker arms on the LDS allow for more (farther) valve opening, letting more air in. Exhaust was said to be the same. If you have a set, I'd throw it on!
Spare throttle and brake return spring in the glove compartment - check! Put those in when I first read about them breaking. Of course, having spares means that Murphy just moves on to break other things instead.
Stay away from the Canadian MLVW "Deuce" - the DND sold them branded as "irrepairable" and they will show up as such when you try to get plates for them. You will only be able to use them off road. A shame. Yes, there may be grey avenues around that, involving export and re-import or otherwise...
Truck has to have a title. Do not even consider a US truck with bill olf sale only! Due to age it is exempt from most of the Registrar of Imported Vehicles restrictions. Read up on the RIV requirements to be certain. You pay HST on import and receive a stamped form from customs to take to the...
You diagnose the leak as brake fluid. That makes it a "must fix now" item. Chances are, it is the wheel cylinders leaking. Chances are, it is either because they are really old and in need of overhaul or the new ones without cup expanders were installed at some point. In any case, I would
- pull...
I had the pleasure of stopping by and taking a peek at the truck....she's going to be a beauty! One of the more practical variants of the M35 that is certainly fun to have around for all sorts of projects. Jon does a great job of getting her completed and working properly.
Sorry, no...picked it up at a local truck shop. It has an aluminum base and a clear poly cover to protect the amber lens. Was about $100. Public works trucks and plows use this model around here.
If you are installing two of the original amber beacons with motor and (double) lamps, they do draw considerable power. Many that left them running with the engine off found that out the hard way.
An install with a relay would probably be wise; avoids running all that amperage through the...
The engine bay does not appear to have been cleaned and the surfaces of the block that are visible appear dry. There is no indication of oil leaks and there is no noticeable blow-by on idle from the crank case vent (no slobber tube attached). The top of the front axle pumpkin also appears dry...
Some is just coolant spill from refilling the rad. The longer tracks on the block are oil traces from the leak before I re-torqued the head nuts. I will clean them up, but I wanted to see if there was more coming down in the same areas. There isn't. I broke a wire on the EGT probe somewhere and...
How can this happen? I am unclear on this also. The in-tank pump provides fuel to the auxiliary fuel pump at the injection pump. It is a low pressure affair. Not sure how this would get fuel into the crankcase, unless something else is defective (e.g. a leaking, not bypassed FDC) that would also...
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