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Last year my trusty LDT developed a knock, started to misfire/"pop" and became harder and harder to start. I decided to swap it out for a takeout LDS. Project creep led to a major refresh of the LDS before it went in and also the Waterloo 5th gear OD modification to the Spicer 3053A. If you...

I re-ringed the 3-ring pistons that were in the engine; they checked out ok. Engine was already rebuilt once by Continental.

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon...

The leak seems to be from the HG behind the exhaust manifold (of course; anywhere else you could actually see it!!). There is a chance it is the valve cover, but I doubt it. Oil pressure on the rebuild is really good, runs at around 90 psi when fully loaded.

Block surface checked for flatness, factory-new heads, new-style headgasket (latest). Non-TD block. Torqued in stages up to 130 ft.lbs. During second hour of operation I wailed on it a bit more. I noticed ok EGT (1100) but the turbo happily boosted to 15 psi and a bit beyond. I eased up and...

Cause and effect....easy to get pushed down the wrong path. It *could* be a temperature thing, but it is more likely a time issue. It has enough fuel to run for a few minutes, then it shuts off. Coincidentally, it also warms up while it runs. I would strongly suspect a supply problem that allows...

Installed rebuilt LDS-465-1A with modified transmission behind it (Waterloo OD). Replaced a hard brake line. Hooked everything up (clutch adjust, throttle adjust etc.) First test drive today! Absolutely awesome! Some minor fixes to do, install fan and brush guard, adjust brakes and start...

Not to add to your woes, but the CTIS has been unreliable, even when the trucks were still on active duty. The original tires are prone to internal breakage from sitting without air often and/or for prolonged periods of time. That makes the original A3 tires a risky proposition with regards to...

As for wheel bearings: If, after a drive of 30 mins or more, they just get warm - i.e. you can leave your hand on the hub for several seconds without fear of getting burned - I would not obsess about it. I would take action if a hub gets too hot to touch for any length of time.

Did you measure with the engine running and/or air pressure over 60 psi present?

It amazes me....the two batteries in series have sufficient power to weld metal - or set the truck on fire. The battery cables are often a weak spot...chafing, age etc. and I really hope that people recognize how dangerous this is on a truck without electrical master switch/battery disconnect...

Never too late to revive an old thread. Perhaps there is some newer info that can be shared. Someone MUST have put a Pacbrake in by now!!

Thanks for the pics and the link.....ROKON....what a cool bike! :-)

I remember talk of a civilian Spicer box from that era that would have a better overdrive, but what I recall is that they are made from unobtainium. That would be the Spicer 3053"B" transmission. It has a longer first gear 4.5:1 and a longer overdrive at .75 :1 . There is some info here...

First off, thanks to all of you who have helped me with wisdom and insight during what was (umm..still is) my biggest, most involved Deuce project so far. Rustystud, gimpy, gringeltaube and many others provided crucial tips when I needed help. I put a couple of clips into my "starter" thread...

I had a tach gauge fail the way you describe. Also, tach cable can fail in interesting ways - it can break and the the broken ends can still interlace to create some movement on the other side. It could fool you into thinking the cable was good. Hold one end while spinning the other should...

It is now some 6 hours later and I still cannot wipe the stupid grin off my face! So happy the rebuild resulted in an engine that starts and runs! Not even the comment "yes, but let's see for how LONG she runs!" manages to depress me!

Here is VIDEO #1: cranking and oil pressure gauge: https://youtu.be/ilrVbn1CHi0 Here is VIDEO #2: cranking until she fires up and brief run: https://youtu.be/sCXQx-ljiD4 Oil pressure at cranking hit 60 psi, I used a manual transfer pump plumbed between the jerry can and the fuel filter to...

Riddle solved - perhaps it helps somone else: - the solenoid will NOT engage and the starter motor will NOT run, unless negative is hooked up to the lug on the starter motor part. - clamping negative to the starter housing or to the engine block is NOT sufficient - the starter needs negative...

I tried turning the engine over with the starter - no dice. I thought the Prestolite was maybe defective, so I swapped it for the Lees-Grenville from the other engine. Still no dice. Does not click, does not turn over. This tells me that I am likely the problem. Here are pictures of my setup...