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Ha, ha, ha! :-)
I have a "good running takeout engine" that was just going to be swapped in. It ended up being a rebuild (old crank but new bearings rings, etc.). Nothing like your car manufacturing. These projects have a life of their own.
Apologies - not intending to hijack. Does "retorque" involve running the engine to operating temp, taking off valve covers and valve train and setting torque wrench to final torque (130 ft lbs for non TD, 157 for TD) and going over the head nuts at the original sequence?
I had to replace that, too - I made up a new fitting out of a "T" that threads into the bottom of the IP and a 90-degree NPT elbow that threads onto one side of the "T". Works fine.
I am looking forward to the picture of you driving it out of the garage under its own power for the first time - and the grin on your face when you do it! :-)
I was lucky enough to actually be able to go see (and, even more rare, get inside) U-534 at Birkenhead, well before the museum went under, the boat was cut up and an incomplete medley of sections was put on public display near a subway station, where they now sit and rot. The pictures above are...
Got 'er done.
The good news was that I did not forget to disconnect anything!
The bad news was that we did a bit of damage to the truck:
- tranny tunnel cutout in the firewall is bent
- ether start got a good smack (looks like bent the ether bottle's neck (!) and solenoid mounting bracket)
-...
I just did mine - you are right, they are 1 5/8. The 1 3/4 will fit and the clamp will be able to keep it sealed (several members have done that). If you decide to re-do it, I have some leftover new 1 5/8 blue hose and I can cut you two pieces if you can wait for the mail to arrive.
Man, that aint happy days. As for blow-by, it has been reported that, even after a good and thorough rebuild, these engines will still have blow-by. Some more, some less.
I fully agree with the line of testing that you began. Compression and leakdown for starters. I am not sure that...
I got the truck ready for engine removal. Everything is disconnected, the four engine mount bolts are out and engine and tranny are coming out tomorrow afternoon! I slightly damaged the rad when I took it out...should have removed the brush guard first....I ripped several small fins. Need to get...
I admit, I never used the -P manuals, but they are indeed helpful. Thanks for that reminder.
The M35A2 has 8 engine mounts (isolators):
4x NSN 19207 7538641 (upper mount)
4x NSN 19207 7538640 (lower mount)
The info is in TM9-2320-361-34P and can, for example, be found at...
Ready to start engine removal. What to do about the old-age senile isolation mounts? I see left ones on an auction site (right and left are different sizes...) and they do not feature prominently on any vendor's list. Are there generic replacements that will work as well?
I have just finished my LDS rebuild and I was very attentive to spot the details and differences mentioned here, compared to the LDT. Let's be precise here: I am an amateur and have torn through the innards of exactly 1 LDS (Continental factory rebuilt before) and 1 LDT engine for a rebuild...
Thanks for the flashback to me being young and stupid - I drove a big dump truck for forestry road construction as a summer job and, with the bed up, I checked the hydraulic tank and found, gosh, it was way low. So I added a 10 gallon drum of hydraulic oil and filled it to the FULL mark. Guess...
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