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The above is what makes it easy - if a magnet sticks to the block it's not a Goat engine. Not that it would make much difference in the value - the ex-Goat 353s seem to be way more common than the iron ones pulled out of loaders, crushers, boats etc. anyway. Any 353 would be a great swap into a...

I didn't have the time to join in our little local light parade this year - but here is a photo from a couple of years ago. I use a 24V inverter to run the lamps and stereo amplifier etc.

There are several points on the Goat that naturally collect water - but I've never heard of a diff vent pulling in H20 unless it had been submerged in deep water. Locking and thumping of the diff is usually a broken ring gear - I've gone through that routine with my front diff after having...

I have to admit I have given into temptation and swam mine across a local lake a couple of times. I cinched up an empty, sealed 55g steel drum onto the front to offset the weight of the winch. I found that the extreme maintenance needed after each swim was way more than the pucker factor of...

A gel cell can be dangerous as well - I've seen them "football" a number of times from being overcharged.

I agree you can probably get by just using your DC to DC converter just the way it is, though you won’t get the maximum charge or life out of the battery. If preventing electrolyte boil-off and the production of hydrogen gas is a big issue for you, or you are trying to maximize the life and...

Turn the (2) 1/4 turn screws on the master cyl access panel on top of the cowl, and remove the panel. The switch is accessible from above.

The OEM blackout switch is one of the more easily found parts - since it was common to just about all the M series vehicles of the same era. I would start out by replacing the toggles with the original switch, if that is a possibility for you.

The Goat has brake lamps that work when the lighting switch is in either the STOP LIGHT or SER DRIVE position.

It looks to me like the center drive axle shaft assembly (11640263 NSN 2520-00-781-7818 ) is unique to the Goat. You might have some luck bringing the shaft assy into a good heavy truck parts dealer, and letting them have a go at matching the U-joints. Otherwise - look online for someone parting...

The flasher was used on multiple vehicles. I have had to replace both the directional switch (11613632-1 NSN 6220-00-808-6072) and the flasher module (11613631 NSN 5945-00-789-3706) to keep the turn signals and emergency flashers going. I found my best deals at a local dealer that sells to...

I wouldn't hesitate to buy new repro tires, or mounted used ones that I could inspect - but be very cautious of NOS tires still in the wrappers. I purchased a full set of 7 NOS tires from northern Calif that looked perfect when they arrived - but they were **** to get mounted - and split like...

I haven't found any repair job on the Goat to be more difficult than on any other mil vehicle - except for the issue of difficult access to parts in the lower hull. I did have some trouble swapping out my front diff after it was grenaded by car thieves taking the GG for a joy ride - but the...

Tried to call by phone, and sent an e-mail with no reply so far from either attempt. I'll try this week to contact a few of the more active members on the site that may have some info on what happenned with Russ.:(

I'm curious whether you bought the vehicle this way, or did you decide on converting to a 12V system yourself for some reason? The 24V components draw half the current - but copper losses in the 24V system wiring are only 1/4 of what they will be with a 12V conversion - as power loss varies with...

Good question! I haven't had any problems with bearings - and I have a few spares in my Gama stuff - so I have never looked into the wheel bearings. Looks like the OEM mfr was Timken - part # 11602374-2. The same part shows up on the support parts list for the M656 8X8 truck. The NSN is...

I'm sure I can measure one tomorrow. I actually have a complete extra tractor body (with the lamp guards) that was given to me by Werner Meisterburg, in order to save it from the scrappers when his county came down on him for "too much junk in the yard". This was of course on his own property...

I also have a remote drain adapter - but not sure of the brand, since it was installed by the PO. He manufactures and sells an automatic oil change system for large trucks that snaps onto the adapter and pumps out the used oil, then pumps in a metered volume of fresh oil after the filter has...

I didn't notice anything unusual about your battery box from your photo. Are the aftermarket ones something you bought, or something you fabricated? It would be kind of nice to not have to worry about stepping on them.

Put a voltmeter directly across the battery terminal posts (not the clamps) of each battery when someone pushes the starter button. If the voltage drops below 9-10 volts while cranking, the issue is the batteries. If the voltage on the batteries stays up but you still get only a "click", the...