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mine rubs a little at full stuff, it does not when going around a corner or hitting small bumps. Im not a fan of body lifts either, and id perfer to keep the stock rear spring like i said in another thread. i just buy the front lift springs a flip the back shackles. to get more lift also, buy...

12" springs are way big. a stiff wind will blow that thing over. go look at ck5.com and check out what they are running. ive got 42's with 6" springs a a zero rate.

8 inch spring lift and some fender cutting.

i didnt say system. i just said ignition. the thing that you stick the key into to start the truck.:wink:

remember that your cucv is 24v! not 12v, and chances are that your stereo is 12v. To install properly you need a constant hot wire, direct to the battery works fine and then a switched power, hook it up to the fuse paned onto the ignition or blinkers, etc. this way your clock will always tell...

good point on the axles, 4.10 are still a little "high" for 36's, but i did run some 37's with 4.10's on my jeep for 2 years without a problem. go find a "camper special" 3/4 ton chevy and snag the axles, they are VERY cheap, 14ff and a hp44, both 8 lug, and if your lucky some did have 4.56...

have the insulated battery boxes, both heaters, everything is hooked up. have the control panel in the cab. anyone know how to use them? have never started them or done anything to them? one switch is marked (cab), does it also heat the cab? does the truck need to be running in order to use...

shops are going to charge an arm and a leg. if you can change your own oil, you can lift your truck. do some research and make a weekend out of it. you can put a 4 inch lift on your truck for 3-500 bucks. steering id take to the shop if you have never done it before, and you dont need to worrk...

im rinning dual straight pipes, no differance except for the noise, haha. the factory exhause on my cucv was 2.5" so i cut the mufflers off and had the exhaust shop bent me 2 45* pipes that i hooked up, sounds mean now!

not likely but, if you are living in NY, and not using this as a daily driver, old diesel can gel up, in the winter months they use a (winter) diesel as opposed to the summer diesel. the summer diesel gels up A LOT if it gets cold and sits for a period of time. Just curious if you don't use your...

great tip! thanks man.

im getting ready to do the same thing this weekend. the only thing that im worried about is holding up the new tranny, since my truck sits way higher up then stock, hopefully i get it no problem though. any other helpfull tips?

i do, but i dont need to because i buy the right ones in the beginning. so it makes no differance to me which way they mount.

the rear springs may be old, all you have to do though is REMOVE the overloads and they will flex 100times better then any fullsize chevy lift spring that you can buy for the rear, and as for the ubolt plate, you can vary easily keep the stock rear springs and flip the ubolts, if you get the...

no you dont, and you dont need a tcase drop for a 6" either.

ok here it goes. If your looking for a good on-off road lift, heres what you need to do. get some 4" lift springs and 1" zero rates in the front, no need for longer brake lines, you wont be THAT flexy. do yourself a favor when it comes to the steering and purchase a crossover steering kit from...

after your tranny swap I would highly recomend some new gear sets. Try for atleast 4.56 maybe even 4.88. Your truck will love you for it. Pick up some YUKON gear sets and maybe a rear locker too. PS if you have a gov-lok in the rear rip it out and throw it away before it blows up, haha. 4Lo.com...

it was full when I checked, but i will double check! thanks

nope, just good ol tsl's, boggers dig to much for the terrain that we have up here.

yeah, had to do some grinding to fit a 15" rim on a dana 60, fun fun. that was me by the way.