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it is possible to remove the balljoint off the IP without removing the IP. ou have to in order to get to one of the 4 nuts holding the IP on. it is not possible to remove the control unit (the little arm on the side of the IP) while the IP is on the side of the engine. if that's what you're...

Injectors broken down. the four pics of the nozzles themselves are 4-3-2-1 from first to last pic. in 4, the pin is flush with the nozzle body. in the others, it's in varying degrees of sticking out. I'm assuming that's not normal, correct? If that's true, then they should all look like the...

also, check your oil. just in case.

looks like I'm cleaning injectors. I watched the solenoid plunger, prior to fooling with it, and it's functioning normally. I jiggled it up and down, really working it, and sprayed some WD40 (I'm out of PB blaster) on the lever, and it's all working right. fuel flow is the same squirting...

indeed. I'll be getting my fill of entertainment again tomorrow if the rain holds out. :)

I'll check the solenoid tomorrow, hopefully the rain holds off for a bit. dumb question: Can I run the generator without the solenoid? If so, I could just remove it altogether, and when I want to shut it off, turn off the switch, pull the DC breaker, and then go push the throttle lever down...

he said fuel.... so the torch is out. as for the hammer, it might work. seriously, I have no idea. best of luck.

game called on account of rain. time to regroup, re-read, and try again tomorrow. I didn't know that about the solenoid, I thought if you could see movement, it was good. I think I'll try that before I pull the glow plugs, since that would be quite a bit easier than anything else on my list...

about to go out an check the plugs out of the engine, I'll update once I check 'em. I thought about the filter screens in the pumps, and realized someone posted a reason why that's not likely earlier in the thread: the pumps are common, and while it may be good to clean the filter screens...

I get voltage to all 4 plugs when the switch is on, and to the heaters in the manifold as well.

One more thing, and this might be a head-slapper..... I should probably pull the fuel strainer membranes on the bottom of the pumps, and make sure they're not horrible clogged, right? because if I AM having a fuel delivery problem, that could certainly cause it, correct? I say this for two...

I did a preliminary check on the plugs, placing my common lead (black) on the hex portion of the plug and the hot (red) lead on the spade. I got between 5.0 and 5.6 on each plug. I plan to pull them tomorrow and check them out of the engine. I'm assuming when i do this, I should put the...

the wiring harness hasn't been cut at all, and it ran beautifully for 30 minutes until I shut it down. if I can figure out if this is a fuel or a heat problem, I'll have a good runner already. though, if I can't, your idea is my next plan, though that's pretty far away now that I've heard it run.

you got it. thanks guys, and special thanks to you , Jerry, for the quick response. more to follow...

cool. I'll pull the plugs, stick a lead on each end, and look for 5-6 ohms. if it's out of range, i know they're no good. Jerry has some for sale and rock auto has them in packs of ten. also, my Dad's genset has 4 in it, so i can check those as well and use some of those to rule out a...

right, but I'm getting decent voltage to the plugs. and I'm either getting no smoke out of the 1-2 cylinder bank or I'm getting a minimal amount of white smoke out of it, while getting fairly thick black smoke out of the other bank. pressure is the same when I put my hands in front of the...

Put a meter on all the plugs, and when I turn the switch to preheat, each one is getting 21.xx VDC. That's using the block as a ground. The manifold heaters are getting 11.xx VDC each. The IP is timed, I took it off and re-checked it for broken parts, everything is working as it should. I get...

the plunger guide/oldham drive, which is on page 4 of the PDF, part number 8546.

because I didn't think the lack of preheat would cause a no-start in weather like this. But you're saying it does, so, I'll go back to it. I like your idea better than mine, because I find it hard to believe as well that 2 of them would stick right after running the engine like I did. I just...

yup! wait one.