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Or a power tank. Which is what I am thinking about a lot lately:
POWERTANK - CO2 Air Systems
I added a York to my M715. M35 tanks under the bed and plumbed fittings to both bumpers. Works great! However, now that I drive the M1009 more. It is a lot of time, effort and money just sitting...
You need to do something called a "dry park check." Have somebody get in the truck with the engine off and the steering wheel unlocked. They need to turn the wheel back and forth about 45-60° over and over and over again. You need to be on the ground under the front end. Put your hand on...
The -20 manual has a page or so dedicated to fuel gauge diagnosis. If it is going to the full side, then either the tank ground is bad, the wire to the tank is bad or the sendor is bad. Follow the procedures in the manual to narrow it down some more.
We were there for 18 hours. Heck, we even had our cots set up in Mike's parking area before you got there.
Seriously, I would love to attend again. Colton is starting school football tomorrow with 7th grade. That means every week day between now and November is spoken for. The heat makes...
So that is why you were wondering if I was coming to the Rally. I get it. I thought you guys wanted my company.
Did he chase down that single axle trailer pulling a barn door Suburban to get it you think?
All the CUCV trucks came with the same gears inside the tcase for the speedometer. Because the 1009 is the odd ball, a gear reduction box was put between the tcase and the speedometer cable. That box however was used to speed up the speedometer cable, not slow it down. Yours is the wrong way...
Read the sticky threads at the top of the CUCV forum, download the manuals, print them if you can and learn to spend all your spare time looking at the huge troubleshooting section of the -20 manual. The wiring really IS simple. Once you get your head around it.
You are able to rotate the input yoke on the rear axle more than 180° with the truck in neutral and the parking brake on, correct? I just tried that on a CUCV 14 bolt across my class. Maybe 30° of free play. I think you need rear differential work.
That is just faded and peeling 4 color camo with red oxid primer underneath. My M35A2 still has its original 4 color paint on it. 3 color camo replaced it by 1982 or so and now they are mostly tan. You have a trailer made and painted during the transition from solid green to the woodland camo...
You are a little over 200 miles. I had mine down in Corpus a few years ago to drag a truck back for somebody else. Figure 5 hours each way. Hwy 77 to Hwy 21. Be carefull going down the hill into LaGrange.
Yes, we camp on site. You can stay inside the bunk house if you don't want to tent...
Being able to actually check the timing is something being discussed in another thread. Notice, basically nobody knows how to do it or with what tools? That is because it really isn't needed for these engines. Do some of us want to know just because? Yep.
If your 1009 starts, drives down...
The -20 manual has a huge 70 some odd page electrical troubleshooting section. Does the heater fan still work? The fuse for it also is part of the charging circuits. Check that fuse and the very bottom fuse on the box which is the 24V fuse for the Alt 2 circuit.
follow the -20 and let us...
The only time my 1009 has not started was when I was 60 miles away in the family Suburban with my Scouts and Jennifer had to run to town in the 1009. I could hear the glow plugs cycling on the phone and the starter turning and turning and turning and turning. It made me hurt having to listen...
Parts trucks that became projects that needed other parts trucks. Yep, Green Iron Disease is very harsh.
Most of the high ware items are also ones that should be replaced new for safety reasons. I am thinking brakes, suspension and steering parts here. If you are looking at using used parts...
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