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They were around $5200 yesterday morning when I looked and then quickly left that site to not be tempted.

Hitting the lunette side to side will also break the cone fit loose. BFH is your friend. 1-1/2" wrench is what you need for the big nut on the lunette by the way.

Shifting at 20 and 35 is more the normal. Probably just old vacuum lines and a little adjustment to the vacuum valve on the side of the IP. Many threads have been started about putting a 700R4 or 4L8E in the CUCV trucks. It can be done, but cost is often the stumbling block that stops it...

Not trying to sound doubtful, but 52" tall tires, a 6.71 gear ratio and a .80 over drive means 2458 rpm at 70 mph. Since 52's won't fit a M35 and the od is more around .85. How are you hitting 70-75 mph? Unless you are busting past 2600 rpm in which case you will be able to examine the...

I pulled the speedometer out last night, but left the gauge panel in. Light dirt, but still pretty clean. I oiled it up and ran it in a drill. Worked fine. I pulled the cable insert out, cleaned and oiled it up again too. No difference on my test drive. Then I pulled that stupid gear...

I have been dealing with a bouncing needle the last few weeks. Here are my suggestions. Pull the cable off the back of the speedo, get it down to where you can see it and watch it while you drive the truck forward and backward. If it moves nice and easy without noise, then time to pull the...

It comes back to the 25+ year old arguement again. There are seals inside the axles that will or have worn out. Same with the springs and the bushings for the springs. Nothing last forever. Most of the trucks have some spring sag to them. Especially in the rear of the M1009's. Go to the...

A M1009 would work great for what you described. However, even though you are getting a running, driving truck for basically nothing compared to new vehicle prices. Be prepared to spend about a modern vehicle payment each and every month on it until you go through all the wear items. No...

12.6 volts is a fully charged battery at rest. 14.4 volts is what each battery should show when the truck is running and the alternator is working. Depending on how you measure, you might get 12.0-14.4 on one battery and 26.4-28.8 on the other. 28.8 across both is considered the goal by the...

Do a test on each battery with a digital volt meter and then post what you find with the engine running.

Run your hand over the tread from outside to inside and than back out. Is it smooth going in and ruff coming back out? Kind of like a really dull saw blade? Then, that is a toe induced tread wear. If it is smooth in both directions, then it is a camber induced tread wear. You didn't...

What kind of pedal do you get with the air system empty? Did you adjust your shoes? You should have a pedal that will stop the truck with no air present. Have you checked the clearance of the pedal to master push rod? There should be some slop in there, otherwise the master piston never...

My M1009 had a speedometer that would be rock steady up to about 45 mph. Then it would jump about 20 mph faster than actual speed and just kind of float around until I slowed below 45 again. I pulled the cable insert, cleaned it, oiled and no change. I found another speedometer and installed...

BR44, It sure sounds like a heater hose or heater core. Both can leak in the places you mentioned. Others have been right on telling you the problem area. If you are new to these trucks and to working on your own stuff. You would be well ahead to start reading the manuals. The -20 tells...

Check the connection at the radiator. Follow the procedures in the -20 if tightening up the plug doesn't solve the issue. Mine did this for a few months until I put just a little more crimp on the thing.

Childrens hard plastic swimming pools are also good to put around the drain bucket. They take forever to drain the oil back out of though.

Yep, looks like your lift pump is the cause of the leak and the hard starting. Cheap to buy, hard to replace because of location.

A picture would be a big help. Working from memory. Isn't the bottom bolt for the passenger side alternator a real long one with a sleeve? Is the crack at the head, at the bracket, on the sleeve? Is anything leaking from it?

I was thinking the same thing but didn't want to pick on Rory anymore. At least, if it does leak. Does it for sure have DOT5 or BFS in it instead of DOT3?

At least I got one of the digits correct. Sorry for the mis statement of the number. I could not find that site where I thought I had saved it. Along with the original REO pictures, drawings and performance data.