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Thanks for the tips! I was wanting to go this same route once I was ready for paint. Truth be told, I'll probably try to get the body off the chassis and do a full repaint when I get to mine...but that might just be a dream. I want to see this HMMWV of your's some time soon to see how much...

There we go, that's a solid explanation for what's going on and the difference of documentation. I wonder why that info wasn't available when I called down? Maybe I just didn't ask the right questions... Either way, I think everyone needs to scribble this detail in their installation guides...

That is the work instruction I was referencing, but please re-check the section on single-voltage installations: there is no wire connected to the +14V stud in a single voltage application and the drawing you linked agrees with that. This was a question I had raised directly to CE Niehoff and...

Up to you where you buy it from (you can find way better prices than what I'm linking), but this brand of wire met every spec that I needed, including oil/chem/heat resistance, plus the wire itself is tinned and will reduce the liklihood of corrosion down the line if the jacket is compromised...

If you have something drawing the power down on your batteries at rest, it certainly can be your batteries. What's the measured voltage on your batteries right now, before putting them on any charger?

Please ignore that wire on that drawing. Either leave it open (no wire connected, period), or run an 8 AWG wire back to the positive stud of the REAR battery in order to offer a 14V charging system (good for if you have multiple 12/14V accessories plugged in, to keep the batteries balanced)...

Yup, fire that hauler. It's one thing to have to explain a bad outcome to a customer, but it's another to be the one causing the bad outcome...

You're not blowing air into the cadillac valve itself. Look for the hose that is going to the fan clutch assembly. You should see it go from the cadillac valve to an elbow on the fan shroud, and then that goes straight across to the fan clutch. Just disconnect the hose somewhere outside of...

Everything I read says to always replace that tabbed lock washer. Generally anything you have to bend to fit must be replaced every time. The last thing you want is those tabs being over-fatigued, slipping, and your wheel coming off.

4-doors almost all cost more, but the condition of the tops and doors is almost universally junk. Look at the price history in your area...if 4-door units are going for $2000 or more, just buy a better-condition 2 door unit and buy a BRAND NEW 4-door kit from Breton (they make the official US...

The fundamentals of it are stupid simple. Assuming you're using an A0/original setup, a conversion from 4 to 2 would look something like this: remove soft top, remove soft top "hand rails", remove C-pillar, remove 3-point seat belt (if installed), remove doors and hinges, remove seat back (but...

I'm generally a sucker for event shirts, as long as they're in the range of $15. I have 3 or 4 ADV motorcycle shirts by now just from the last year and a half.

I'm baffled as to what you'll do with 15 HMMWVs as well, but more power to you! I hope you share how these develop in the coming weeks/months.

Talk to someone in Texas. Registration is very much a state-by-state issue. A Marine M1123 is Virginia is still having a **** of a time passing through the DMV, Michigan and Florida both are angry at all HMMWVs last I heard, and yet some states don't care and will register anything.

Volume 1 of the -20 TM has a troubleshotting guide for a lot of systems in the vehicle. In the TM repository on this website, there's also an "A1 Troubleshooting Guide" that is also pretty useful and has more pretty pictures. The circuit breakers on an original or A1 HMMWV are solely behind...

That kit is complete and the instructions are sound. It's great for having everything you need in one shot, but you can also buy all the stuff to do it for far less (about 1/4 the price) at Erik's Military Surplus and have spare parts left over.

You'll have to remove the shifter unless you're a model sailboat-in-a-bottle enthusiast. Be extremely carefully with removing the shifter from the shift boot, as the boot tears extremely easily and also sticks to everything very easily. I've heard on several occassions, people installing a...

That's great! I'm glad between you two, a pinout was known and that could be pulled together. I think I can comfortably buy a fistful of these headsets now for use with my VIC-3 and a couple for direct-wire to H-250-using radios...

Absolutely. I deliberately choked my air intake with a plastic bag and increased the throttle just to ensure my gauge was functional. Really neat how the thing works.

You should be able to use any buss bar that has a sufficient current rating. There's the "24V" buss bar intended to be used when you install the 400A alternator that you could install as a 12V bar if you'd like. I currently use the PulseTech Power Distribution Unit (PDU), which allows easy...