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The air system in the brakes only provides assist to stopping. If you have enough leg strength and your brakes are properly adjusted. You should be able to stop fine. It is just how much you can leg press. The water cooled Gasser air compressor was replaced by the two cylinder air cooled...

Are you planning to flat tow or trailer anything heavy? I loved how solid the truck felt on 9.00-20 duals pulling and flat towing. I put on XL 11.00-20's and now it is not near as stable to flat tow other M35's or a loaded trailer. That is the only draw back I have found with singles. Now...

The fuel gauge is just an Ohm meter with the sender in the tank a variable resistor. The needle going way past the F means the circuit is open. It could be the 3 legs of the gauge in the cluster, a break in the wire going back to the sender, the sender itself or the ground for the sender...

Yes, they are heavy. Figure a normal shop engine hoist will not be able to pick it up either.

You have several problems not really related to each other happening at the same time. Glow plug card issues, glow plug relay issues and then the charging system issues which cause your low batteries. Theory wise, your volt meter being lower meant all or at least more of your glow plugs were...

To put it simply, the big wire that bolts to the alternator should be 24V hot at all times. The small wire that plugs in with the Packard connector should come on and off with the power switch on the dash. If you have that, then the alternator is bad.

Go to the front of the truck and look under the bumper at the end of the steering box. The wire coming out of it is the horn ground. Move it around some. You will probably get sparks. I have had several trucks with old wiring and the horn ground wire seems to always be raw at this point. Be...

The fiber washer is all that makes the military 27Si alternator isolated ground. There is also the extra ground lug on the back of the military alternators. That make sense? If you are starting with a known isolated ground alternator, just put everything back in the way you took it apart...

Boxcar, Pistolnut and my self should be at the gate between 1800 and 1830 or at least real close to that time. For anybody coming from the Austin area, Boxcar will be whistling his way out of Red Rock around 1600 on FM 20 to 71. Then TX-21. Whichever one of us gets to the road side park on...

I figured that out after writing the above. "How did he ride in my truck when we were watching him lead the way all afternoon?"

You need to unplug the plug from the alternator. The purpose of testing with it un plugged is to determine if the problem is with the alternator or with the truck. That 3.5 volts could be from a short in the alternator or a broken wire on the truck. We don't know which at this point. Yes...

Probably the best advice is to find the -20 manual for the CUCV trucks. Click the tab that says "resources" at the top of this page. Then select TM's from the drop down box. Follow it until you find TM 9-2320-289-20. Down load it for sure and print it if you can. There is a huge 70 some odd...

May 1st until now I put: 800 miles on the M35A2 going to air shows, parades and just driving around. 200 miles on the M35 Gasser doing parades and just driving around. 1000 miles on the M715 making parts runs and just driving around. After driving 800 miles round trip to get the M1009...

My first suggestion is longer bolts that you can start and not tighten until both are going. I have a mental image of you playing see saw with the rag joint. Or, you just can't get the 3 things lined up on both sides at the same time? Are you using all the same parts except for the new rag...

I forgot you were in my truck taking all those pictures. Thanks for posting them. Only a week to go until we do it again.

When my starter died a month or so ago. The engine barely moved with two good batteries. Hook up the slave cable to a running Duece and it fired up like normal. Doing that made the starter really hot though. You would still be ahead to start it and crawl underneath to see if the starter is hot.

BFH is your friend with these things.

Ken J, From 1968 up, there were about 4 different versions of the huge 60 amp 24 volt military alternator used. Several different makers made them. About the only thing they all have in common is the mouting tabs, shaft size and 2 wire hook up. Where the fan is, internals and how they looked...

That wiring kit works great and takes about 5 minutes to wire up. You will need to find the Military 60 Amp alternator as used on newer full 24 volt vehicles such as the M715, M35A2 and all the 5 tons. The pulleys might not be the same as yours. Air impact and a gear puller make swapping them...

Crane truck actaully has a great heater wiring thread from a few years ago. Once the server/picture issues are fixed this afternoon, do a search for it.