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PM Ken over in Houston. He does great work.

This weekend makes 4 months of M1009 owner ship. I have put almost 5000 miles on it in that time. The engine starts and runs good. The idle always seems a bit off, but being my first 6.2 I don't know any better. Last weekend I was able to hook a tachometer up to it. 900 rpm hot engine...

No fuses. The 3 lever has a circuit breaker inside that will blow when it gets hot. Then, once it cools down, current is flowing again. The current flow for the brake lights is from the 3 lever to the brake switch on the air pack back to the 3 lever and then out to the blinker arm on the...

Besides the shock. Have you tried adjusting your brakes, bleeding them and checking them according to the TM's. They are really pretty easy to work on. I need to get the pin myself. I pulled mine 530 some odd miles last weekend behind the M1009. I was actually camping in the trailer and...

It will work as posted above. You just need to remember that he didn't own the truck he was doing it on, didn't have to pay for replacement parts and didn't have to do the replacement work. That changes a lot of what does and does not get done.

Reading the technical manuals is a must for an owner of these vehicles. You will notice that the last numbers of the manuals are all the same. -10. -20, -30 and -34. The manuals ending with -10 are the basic operators manual. Kind of like your owners manual in a civilian vehicle. They tell...

No, if aimed correctly. The low beams are not blinding to traffic. I have yet to have anybody do the hi/low flip at me. Even when pulling a loaded M101 behind the M1009. The high beams are what really rock in my opinion. They reach way far out there.

Do voltage checks at the alternator. This check will tell you if the truck or the alternator is the problem. Here is a thread about it: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html

I used to think they were rare until I bought my set. Now I see them a lot of places for a lot less money. Good to have though.

Blinkers always work with the key off. Check your bottom middle fuse. That is the fuse for the volt meter. However, the Gen 2 light normally won't come on either if that fuse is blown. Pretty much, go through the -20 steps for each of the problems and check all the simple stuff like fuses...

I fixed my drivers from moving in toward the door by cleaning it and clamping it. I need to do the passenger now. Funny, but it moves away from the door as the door is used. Same fix though.

Yes, just cut up a civilian spark plug wire, strip about 1 inch of insulation off at both ends. Fold the core back to the side. Then unscrew the #1 wire from the cap. You can now stick your civilian wire in there and it will work for the timing light. I have the above pictured adaptor and...

One of my headlights burned up last month and I went to the auto parts store. My thinking was to find the cheapest halogen I could, put that in and then spend money on a set of the new super ultra whatever Bosch things that have the removable bulb and make the sun look dim once I could afford...

A&M '90 here. Whoop! Sermis in Temple has built a nice bobbed truck for himself that he might consider selling. he also has a nice 395 tired truck that you could probably talk him out of. Send him a PM. Wehring builds them to sell as well. I have seen both their work and it is good...

I was able to get my fat hands in on the passenger side, but it was tight.

I would hope 35 since MV speeds require the shortest distance over faster travel roads. Plus, they would make a pretty long line behind them on 21 coming in from Madisonville. Not that the people in Marlin, Calvert and Hearne won't be inconvienenced when they come down 6. At least most of 6 has...

Pull the balancer, pry the old seal out, pound in a new one, add a swipe of oil to it and put the balancer back on. It might add 10 minutes to your balancer swap.

It would be a good idea since you have access to it better than you will in the future. Do the front seal when you put on the new balancer.

Hmm, I tried both in a Check A Thread. 7mm x1.00 was the only one that fit by hand. I would guess that the 1/4 size was what GM used up until the "lets change over to metric one bolt at a time" idea came along. then 7mm x 1.00 was what they went to. I guess by the replies here that both can...

The 1/4 nuts will start on the adjuster bolt. Then they can be forced to tighten. This will work in a pinch. However, the bolt is the 7mm x1.00. Use what you can get, but know it is a pain to force tighten that nut while reaching behind the grill and trying to keep a phillips driver from...