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Thanks. Suggestions on finding current part numbers?

I rolled mine on with Harbor Freight bedliner. I didn't see any value in spraying it. Probably used 20+ chip brushes too.

My M1009 comes out of the body shop this week or next. The next thing on my punch list is the steering column. It has the following issues: Reverse is not engaging well. You have to put it in reverse then push down on the selector to make it grab. Speaking of which, the gear selector...

@Sganderson great looking truck. Nice job. Much more valuable too now that the rocker rot has been addressed. I just spent ~3 months de-rusting mine in the driveway, ugh. I wish the military had renewed the window seals on these things. Yeah, I know :rolleyes:

@Skinny - now we're talking. Agreed. Excellent work. Is that a Westin bumper? That was the closest match I would find on the interwebs.

@SCSG-G4 I really appreciate it. I'm not keeping this thing stock. My intent is to build a bumper that has a swing out tire mount. I'll eventually add a Jerry can holder some point too, I suspect. Something similar to this:

My M1009 is going into the shop this week for final panel finish + bedliner exterior (yeah, I know) + new door and tailgate seals. I removed the bumpers front and rear (thank you plasma cutter.) While at the shop I am going to strip the front bumper and brush guard and refinish. The back...

I cut the fronts off, then hammer them through with a punch. I have one of those ubiquitous auto shade helmets so I turn it all the way to the lowest shade setting. It protects my face but not the top of my head. I watched a cool YT video of a trade school instructor doing a much better job...

Finished cutting the carriage bolts off my front bumper today with my plasma cutter! Yay. My hair smells like burning (really).

Just to clarify - my stress cracks were in the middle of the hood. Looks like someone stood or sat on it. Once it started, rust set in. I would be very difficult for me to weld it and make anything straight ever again. Thought about bending a TIG rod to the shape and trying to weld then...

^ this. I found a local guy with a great reputation who rebuilt 2 of them for me. Knew exactly what it was and the application. He also rebuilt my 1974 Kubota starter. If you are willing to ship to GA I'd be happy to provide the info.

I recently had mine redone. I wasn't sure which kits would fit so I had a highly rated muffler shop do mine. The tech was big into old diesels so he talked me into some other work as well like replacing the glow plugs and rear diff fluid, master cyl, etc. I paid $475 installed for the custom...

I tried this again yesterday with much better weather and enough light to see what I was doing. It took all of 30 seconds to remove the spring. Basically you rotate it out of its perch. I used a pry bar and also lightly loosened one of the retaining tabs. It came right out. It's actually...

My old m1009 hood was bent and had stress cracks. Rather than weld on another part of truck, I bought a new Korean steel hood. Now I need to transfer the "pop spring" (the one that makes the hood pop up when you pull the cable) and the safety latch as well. Yesterday I pried on the old one...

What are those devices on top with the tee fitting? I looked up that company and found temp and pressure sensors. Did you already have those or something? Safety cutoff switches? Also, does anything in that rig actually need hydraulic lines? I can't imagine things going much above 120 PSI...

Very, helpful. Thanks. I will probably go this route.

I think that's it. The Roosa Master was manufactured by the Hartford Machine Screw Company (now Stanadyne) https://i.ytimg.com/vi/veEONfhL3Uk/maxresdefault.jpg Hoping someone more knowledgeable than I can chime it.

Thanks. I would have broken out the voltmeter and checked but it's pouring down raining here today. Does that look like the correct shaped unit? I think there's a sheet metal cover over the assembly so I wasn't sure.

I searched for this and couldn't find a conclusive answer. Looks like the standard m1009 cutoff solenoid should be 24v. Is this a compatible unit? I'm looking for a spare to keep around. Fuel Shut Off Solenoid 26214 for Stanadyne Injection Pump Roosa Master 6.2 6.9 7.3 5.7 6.5 Link: Amazon...

I recently ordered an oil filter type centrifuge from the PA bio guy. Now I need to make it work. The supplier seems to recommend a 1/3-1/2 HP continuous duty motor and a carbonizer pump, which I understand is a vane type pump and used in the foodservice industry (think that's right). Like...