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May I suggest for Clarification that you study voltage drop in a DC resistive circuit. I’m going by memory but I believe those 13g plugs draw 78 amps. If all eight are working. This may give you a better understanding of how this circuit operates.

Been using the box for a mobile scaffold to wash my vinyl siding and eaves.

Passenger side front to rear

I don’t know how the previous owner even got the sway bar back on. I have to drop brackets but I don’t think they’re going to be enough

My property is polluted with old J trucks and M715s. Of course the spring shackles are upfront on those.

My bad and i apologize. Got my thinking backwards. I have a lifted truck here as well that needs some driveshaft attention.

You’ll probably be all right on the front driveshaft. With the shackles in the rear, the driveshaft gets longer when the springs are compressed.

I just installed a new ip. I took the cover off and all appeared clean and normal inside after 2 years of running crude. The orig pump never was right. Sometimes it sounded as if the timing was fixed and advanced. The new one is so much smoother and quieter.

Oil change,inj pump and filters. I always thought this engine was louder than my others. It was allowed the day we picked it up from GL. I feel bad that I did not change it sooner,The motor is so much quieter and smoother now. Injection pump was a fun job with a 6 inch lift and 37’s.

Dang, those diode’s are a whopping $3.50 each.

Maybe a different plan of attack. The front drive pulley removed would allow aprox 3” more for the armature to travel back. That would give me enough access to the diode pack to lift the leads going to the armature to test the diodes without unsoldering them(preffered method in serv manual) and...

Thanks for the heads up. I am going to space the pulley on the front of the GEN head so it can only travel approximately a half inch. Use some wood blocks on this end bell and force it off of the bearing race. My employer told me that I was welcome to use the company induction heater, so I may...

I do not have those and thank you for those TM numbers. I will start searching those out immediately, as with winter coming I want this generator working properly as an emergency back up.

I am using this file as a reference for disassembly and circuit configuration

Top pic is the offending end bell. When the 4 bolts are removed, The Armature assembly will slide back approximately One and a half inches. But the bell does not want to come off of the bearing race that is attached to the Armature

I apologize. This is an M1031 contact maintenance truck with the PTO driven genset. It is a 208/120 V set up. But thank you for your assistance as all is appreciated. I will snap some pictures, So others can get a better picture in their head about this end bell That appears to be stuck on the...

An added twist ,I was walking past the truck and just had to try it again. Put my meter in a 120 V outlet and fired it up. Watch the voltage climb up to 120, plugged in a trouble light and it worked fine. After about 30 seconds I watch the voltage start falling off to the original exciter...

Ok fellow 1031 owners, Who has pulled off of one of these end cap/bearing retainers before? I am sure that it must be a tight fit for the race in the cap, otherwise the race would spin inside the cap. I am ashamed to ask this, as I replace electric motor bearings quite frequently on the job. But...

The bearing cap is stuck on the race and I cannot remove it without getting radical. The disassembly image shows that bearing cap should come right off that race. If there is a bad diode, I’m going to have to pull the bearing. I do not own an induction heater to get the bearing back on if...