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The slave set was an option, for some reason. That long end goes to positive on the terminal board under the radiator. The short goes on one of the four mounting bolts fore the plug itself.
Good job finding that slave!
Get as many manuals as you can, this vehicle deserves being done up right.
I have seen most of the changes authorized for the Goat, but that one I have not seen. With no guard to protect it , it's a bad location. The fact that it rarely gets used makes me wonder why move it.
You can see those little steel tubes I was telling you about, in the water holes. They are designed to lesson the possibility of erosion to the block top by the water flow. When you order the gasket set be sure to tell them it's the aluminum block. They will say, HUH? The right gasket set...
All Detroit engines from this era were Alpine Green when received. If they were rebuilt they were repainted to OD. This paint is available at NAPA and is outstanding paint Drys to a glosy finish that wipes off easily.
Here is a picture of mine in my "Little" test stand.
Saturn Surplus has brand new, in the box, radiators for $250.00 plus shipping. See it on your favorite auction site or call Saturn and ask.
And as for the oil and crud in the bilge under the engine, put a rubber hose on the airbox drain tube and catch the slobber in a gallon can. A gallon...
Those were built and installed by some units to prevent water from being thrown into the cockpit by the rear tractor tires. Mostly found on early trucks.
The valves are easy to get. Just remember to order the right size to fit the Goat pan and thread.
I have had one on mine for years and it really is great.
This is the one for the GOAT 3/4 x 14 tpi. Well worth the outlay of funds...
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