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Wish I could help ya. Georgia is just to far to go. Merry Christmas!!

Give it a try, as long as it fits in the housing. It's not a high speed bearing and has little load, so maybe it will work. Got to get it out first..

Yes!! The shaft slides into the bearing. If the bearing is rusted, and it probably is, it will prevent the shaft from turning. Efectively locking up the rear. I had several big bearing companies looking for a replacement for this bearing. The only thing found was a SKF bearing # 6208-2RSj...

It can be a real B---- getting that shaft to "slide" forward through that bearing. For now just get it loose on both ends. Remove the u joint at the rear and see if the wheels turn. Then work on the carrier bearing. The bearing is housed in a rubber holder and that is bolted in a metal housing...

Before you give up, disconnect the rear driveshaft u joint at the diff. Then turn the wheels. There is a carrier bearing at the front of the drive shat that is a piece of poop! I doesn't last and is probably locked up.

All three differentials have limited slip. That amounts to a clutch pack. They will turn independently but with some force. (About 70 lbs.) Good job on the engine, just don't over rev it untill it gets warm and circulates some oil. The smaller of the arms on the top of the gov. is the engine...

Do you have any manuals?? I'd sure like to know what the redline is that you speak of... Take the top off of the gov. housing and make sure the likkage is free where it goes into the head... If that doesn't work remove the valve cover and check the movement there.

2 u joints for each axle, that's 12 total. 7 u joints on the main drive shaft. 6 u-joints are for the steering shaft. Don't forget the 2 torus bearings on each end of the center differential and the 2 Torsilastic bearings on the carrier articulation joint and the carrier bearing on the rear...

Goat drums should come off eaisely after the center bolt and outer bolts are removed. There are bolts for removing the drum, insert them evenly on each side. If it balks, back off on the brake shoe adjustment. If the brake shoes clear it will come off nicely. Be real sure , once the drum is...

All eight U joints for the front and rear drive axles are the same. The center or tractor rear (All Four) are much larger.. Glad you found them Dave.. What brand were the joints you found??

There are a few that chime in just to see their name and comments in print and increase the post number, NO experiance...

After you've driven it a while, periodicley check those bolts for tightness. They have a tendency to work loose. This was a problem while they were in service.

The only thing that really makes the starter change-out hard is the flame thrower fuel filter hanging down behind it. The fact that yours has been removed will make it a little easier. Just stand on your head and take it out, AFTER, disconnecting both batteries.

That means some D...A.. tightened it too tight. You can put a short piece of pipe on the handle of your breaker bar and turn it. Just don't let it slip out of the hole, Those plugs aren't cheap. When you put it back wrap a couple of rounds of teflon tape on the threads. It shouldn't be that...

Here is what I've done to make changing oil a breeze. QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil Just connect a hose that reaches your bucket and open the valve. I beleive mine is a T104N But check the size you need first then order. They are available from Fumoto or amazon. Fumoto is...

Any time.. Hope it helped Ron.

Man Doghead, are you in this good mood all the time?? Youre Welcome.

Try 208087 or 3035344 - Valve, Solenoid TM 9-2320-260-34P-1

There were many problems with the original oil filter system. It was so hard to get to that the gasket was often let to slip out of position, then to stop the leak it was tightened to tight, distorting the canister. Then off to supply for a new one. This new spin-on solves the problem. Just...

Goat has two solenoid switches. One on the starter, which rarely goes bad. The other is a small one that acts as a switch to activate the other one on the starter. This little one is bolted to the frame support below where the flame start should have been. Check grounds and connections first...