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Air is smaller than fuel. When lines begin to leak it's air intrusion first, no fuel escaping. Happens much more often with soft hoses but after 50+ years copper lines will do it as well. The primary fuel filter is along the chassis and the bolt in question is the long one that secures the...

No reason to keep the FDC, just bypass it. Run the fuel supply hose from the final fuel filter directly to the inlet on the hydraulic head. It's not a needed part for the fuel system. Frothy fuel coming out at the primary filter drain means it still has an air leak between the tank-primary...

It is sucking air so if the fuel pressures are good then it's a cheap (but pain in the ass to locate) problem. Check the seals at all fuel line fittings, including the filter canisters (maybe one didn't seal right when last replaced). Pinhole leaks in the fuel pickup tube would be the next place...

If going with a military truck then a 5 ton, either m809 series (1st choice) or m939/a1/a2 series. Drivetrain parts on them are commercial products that, while older, have parts available. Simple, reliable, durable. For a dedicated camper a m820 is my favorite. If you are not mechanically...

Check the oil cooler. When the engine is shut down after running the cooling system is still pressurized and that's when it forces the coolant into the oil passages. Pretty common cause of coolant in the oil.

Could build a bed winch/tail roller setup.

74M35A2 is who you're looking for with the alternator upgrade. Recently theres been some issues with Wolverine Tech and at least 1 lawsuit that they've lost.

Hahaha yea I remember your experience with frosty poop all over the place. Been a mild winter here so taking advantage of it when possible. The short PTO housing might just get completely replaced by a seal retainer and a yoke for a tractor PTO shaft since they are cheap/readily available...

Looks like might have a deal lined up for the tail roller with mounts from a m916/m920 so that should save alot of labor. While waiting for that to arrive I spent some time removing most of the crane PTO components that won't be used anymore (ad posted in the parts available section). Still...

Depends on what you are going to load. Having the dump bed adds versatility but puts alot more strain on the dump hinges and as you mentioned complicates the design. With a solid mounted bed you can install a roller at the end of the bed, like the pipeline deuce. If going this route then the...

Ah didn't think about Heims. Depending on the angle needed for side/side movement with the legs (when connected together vs disassembled) a single heim at the bottom of each leg might be enough.

The pulley at the end of the bed is for controlling the gin pole as it's raised/lowered. As far as the hing pivots go, the ones I've seen use 2 pivots at the base per leg. One to pivot up/down, the other to let it pivot side/side. Like the towbar feet for example. To split the legs and store...

Other than it not being original that engine swap is an upgrade. Parts availability as you mentioned is becoming a big problem with the older stuff that is discontinued and wasn't the largest market to begin with. Depends on how often the truck is used in my opinion. If it's a workhorse then...

Broken teeth in the turn table or something wedged in there maybe if the crane is not swinging into anything. If it can go to the right and move to the left to get back to center then the motor/controls are working.

For scrap stuff steel is higher right now than it was a few weeks ago so keep that in mind. The manual outriggers that I pulled from the m816 for example, had them listed at $10 each. At the scrap yard for just the 4 of them I was paid a little over $50.

Going off the pic that looks like alot of rust as well, most likely in the wheel cylinders. Personally I'd order 1-2 new wheel cylinders and a couple rebuild kits (those are just seals). Plan to just reseal the cylinders and inspect them but it's a good probably that at least 1 has rust issues...

But yellow jackets are your buddy up there hahaha

Dot 5 will separate on top of Dot 3 and water, so if there is any 5 in the system (assuming the truck has been sitting) then it would be in the sample you pulled from the master cylinder. So the truck has most likely been supplied with dot 3 fluid. Either fluid works fine in the regular driving...

With the spreader bar? If there's enough boom height that works but my goal is to make the rigging as short as safely possible to work better with the short booms that are on these trucks.

By the way, removed the outriggers from my m816 as well and took them to scrap today. According to the scale they weigh roughly 240 pounds each.