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It seems the gaskets that come with the new canister filters are garbage. I sometimes think the gaskets are as old as the technology. I also fought with mine for over and hour before I got lucky and it stayed on. That was a couple years ago now. I have just stayed with that gasket since then...

You bring your RPM up to where the Hz is correct on your meter and then you adjust the voltage knob on the panel to get the correct voltage. Once set you can just leave it alone. Be sure to set your unloaded frequency at 61 hz so when it is loaded it evens out at 60.

If you idle them the voltage regulator will keep trying to increase the voltage until it burns out. I was told that years ago when I first got mine, never idle it!!!! One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread was if the fuel pumps were ever checked for flow and or cleaned? I am guessing...

Definitely get your frequency up to 59-61 Hz or you can burn up the VR. Those old meters are notorious for being wrong.

I was hoping you would change the oil, it is only a couple quarts and like you said cheap compared to the engine. You have no idea what was in there.

Why would it not work on an AC circuit? Current is current AC or DC.

I think I would find a resettable circuit breaker!!!!!

You might want to at least open the oil drain just a hair to see if any water comes out. If it does then you will want to do the oil change first. Condensation will put water in the oil over time. You don't want to pump water through it after all you have done.

Multimeter or just replace it with a new fuse.

And there they are already!!(y)

I am sure the experts will chime in with the technical details but I am thinking basics here. With all the thrashing to find the source of the problem go back and make sure the oil pressure gauge did not just get disconnected at the sender or the wiring up to the gauge. The charging may be a...

Don't you think you ought to find out if it runs before doing TOO much extraneous work on that set?

The biggest problem with these Ambac pumps it those damn expensive timing buttons!!! That they apparently have not made for 50 years. And according to the manual there is a shim between the pump and the block that HAS to stay with the engine. Those are also unobtanium. And also no way of knowing...

Check your ground connections at the frame and make sure they are clean and tight. They may have arced from the short and that will cause a bad connection. You say you have never looked a a military generator before, are you familiar with the series connection of the batteries to get 24 volts?

If you walk in front of the exhaust of a running 002 or an 003 you will notice that the exhaust itself is not very loud. The engine itself is very loud since it is a diesel and it has no water jacket to muffle the compression ignition. Blowing the exhaust out the bottom will make it very...

I am talking about the side view pic and the wire coming out of the blower housing of the generator itself.

I gave you the wrong site to check! It is https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/onan-12-0djc-18r-would-you-buy-it.179870/ that you would need to check out. https://www.smokstak.com/forum/search/158942/?q=Onan+12.0+DJC&o=relevance

Kind of looks like the military units but a LOT of the stuff the military uses is not there. Also not good to see a wire hanging out of the side of the generator! But if these guys can't help you then check out this site , https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/. They cover a lot of older gensets.

Ray, I know on my 3rd gen Dodge with the infamous Bosch pump on the Cummins I make sure I use additive for the extra lubricant. I also use this in my gensets, and all of my diesels for that matter since they are all old and not designed for new low sulfur fuel. Personally I use the Power Service...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep003a-starter-grinding-on-fly-wheel-than-starts.213801/ Post #11 I think it was. I sent you a link to ALL the TM's