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He has a failed TCM so he is looking for the info on replacing it with the older style.

Here is a list of military wire numbers, may not be 100% applicable but 99% are

You may want to get the special 5 point torx drive bits and remove the top of the IP (carefully and cleanly) and have a looksee I would have to see if I can find that shop in Austin, most shops just get a rebuilt unit from someone else.

Interesting, they actually have a ground wire instead of the mounting studs being ground IIRC

I think it is the park lamps not the head lights, to test this there is a way to put the three lever switch into park lights only, IIRC it is the lower left lever. also I believe the switch must also be in service drive. Test this theory out. Also do you have LED front turn lights or are they...

Curious does it fail in both high and low beams?

Not your exact setup but the solenoid lever is in the same place in reference to the tab. This is the no fuel position, as you see if you slide the cover forward you are compressing the solenoid spring which is holding the linkage in the no fuel position. If you slide the cover forward and do...

Yes you are correct on the tab,I was wrong, you start with the front of the cover down on the pump as you slide the cover forward and down as the solenoid will allow you to until it drops in. If you have it correct if you slide the cover forward you will feel spring tension pushing the cover...

Let me go look, now you have me wondering.

Now you have. They were fitted for use here, those doors were replaced with armor doors before deployment.

Flat X doors only fit the up armored trucks

Welcome to the SS forums! I used to work allot over there in Vidor Texas The company I worked for had a compressor Sta. there.

Link?

PM sent.

When the alt is not working does the heater blower work? There is a contactor in the PCB that excites the alt and powers the heater blower motor. Also check the voltage at the IGN terminal on the reg, it should be the same as battery voltage.

I think your compressor is fine, go ahead and try feeding it 24V to one wire with the other grounded and see if the compressor comes on. 19 ohms sounds about right, IIRC the 12V clutches pulled about 3A, so the 1.3A calculated at 28V sounds about right. I would look real hard at that breaker...

Sorry after re-reading your post I would think you do have a fried component, it looks like the breaker was too large or defective and did not protect the system :(

I do not mean to sound condescending but you should have changed ALL fluids and filters before ever trying to start your truck. Driving without doing that could cost you BIG bucks Use DEX III in the steering and transfer case, DEXIII or VI in the trans. EDIT, that is the very first thing I do...

If the AC was on then you likely shorted out the compressor clutch wire at least momentarily to ground, hopefully there is a fuse in the compressor circuit otherwise you likely fried one of the components that feeds the clutch, Yes a schematic would be very helpful, sorry can't help there. One...

Try shorting S and T in the diag port and see if it cranks, ign off.