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Since you are experiencing "SHORT CIRCUIT" I suspect @Ray70 suspicion or something like it may be causing the faults. From the symptoms it sounds like it might be a bad connection or cracked resistor. A short circuit fault gets tripped when the K8 Overload/Short Circuit relay thinks there is a...

Since the fuse mod fuse is good and you're getting way more than 5-11 volts at R14 & CR2 I suspect it could be due to a few issues. During that test the set is supposed to be applying the flashing voltage to the Static Exciter which normally causes the 110 to 160 volts across terminals 10 & 11...

The Technical Manuals (TMs) are located in the TM section of this forum. Here is a link to download the manuals for the 804 ---> MEP-804 TMs It has the TMs for the Generator and TMs for the engines. Generally TM's ending in -10 are the Operator TMs, -24 are the Maintenance TMs and -24P are the...

Have you downloaded the -24 TM for your set? At the end of it are the schematics to help with troubleshooting your set. Also the TM has troubleshooting steps for situations such as No Crank. A good picture of your resistor panel would be of help too.

You can't use that to replace the float switch. The Low Fuel float switch is a "switch". ON-OFF The WEMA KUS SSS 5.5 is a variable resistance unit for sensing fuel level. 240 ohms to 33 ohms.

Same here aua

Does you solar panel charger setup have a 24 volt battery charge regulator in it? If you don't it may cook your batteries.

Excellent! Superb service and fantastic meals at every restaurant. We've done the last 5 cruises with NCL. Back to reality now.

Since the IP body rotates freely but won't lift out I suspect the rack is stuck in the run position preventing the IP from being removed. When the rack is NOT in the stop position the pin and it's arm of the IP are in a position under the lip in the block preventing the IP from being removed...

Works for me on a Cruise Ship in the Atlantic O.

I've got a concept for something to replace the functions of the float switch, A9 Float module and fuel level sensor. Similar to how the AAMPS does it. I'll work on it when I return from vacation.

PM sent

For starters you may want to check the wiring of K20s relay socket. If that checks out OK you ought to bench test the relay in K20 to see if the appropriate contacts both open and close as they should. Something is weird with the K20 relay that doesn't pop CB1.

What do you have the AM-VM switch set to?

I'd recommend the following to see if the rack is stuck. Remove the plug on the side of the governor that's used to access the Droop Adjustment screw. This.. Then look right thru the hole and you will see a rectangular metal block. This block is connected to the left end if the rack. Watch...

As I recall the meter back is secured to the body of the meter by a threaded ring that screws into the black body of the meter. You need to have the meter removed to see it. If not to corroded you can use a small screwdriver and small hammer to unscrew the ring. The ring has small notches in...

K20 is the Oil Pressure relay. Normally when the set is running K20 is closed. Relay K20 closes when you have S1 in START and the Oil Pressure has built up. K20 closes sending 24 Volts to K1. Other contacts in K20 create a "latching" circuit to hold K20 closed so when you release S1 back to...

If the voltages are proportionally the same as 120 and 240 and you can't achieve 120 at the outlet with the set running at 60 Hz then it may be the VR or front panel voltage adjust. If the voltages are not proportionally the same then you the set has other issues.

I suspect shipping the gen head to PR by MeccAlte could be expensive. Here is the contact info to get a price quote and a picture of the packing list with the specific gen head to order.